Thursday 2nd and Friday 3rd February 2023 The station building at Gdańsk Głowny [below] is quite splendid. Unfortunately, it is also being renovated so our plan to find a convenient place for coffee and breakfast while we waited for our train to Warsaw was thwarted. Instead, we had quite a long wait on the platform in the cold. Matilda wished she had put on her thermal underwear. Fortunately, as we were travelling first class we were offered complimentary hot beverages and a choice of meal which would be prepared to order with fresh ingredients. We both opted for salad with ham, pear and blue cheese which was definitely fresh and very tasty. After disembarking in Warsaw, as we left the train station we saw the imposing Pałac Kultury [Palace of Culture and Science] which was a gift to the people of Warsaw from the nations of the USSR and was built between 1952 and 1955. Matilda was convinced that she had gone up to the observation deck before and it was not until a little research revealed that it is remarkably similar to the Latvian Academy of Sciences in Riga that she realised her error, and that she had been […]
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Friday 30th September & Saturday 1st October 2022 We had prioritised the places we wanted to see and decided that a three day vaporetto pass, activated at about midday, would give us the flexibility to go into Venice several times and also visit some of the other islands over a period of four days. Information displayed at all the vaporetto stops explains that ‘between September 15th and April 30th the local administration operates a Piano di Viabilità Pedonale [Pedestrian Mobility Plan]’ based on erecting temporary, elevated walkways in the case of Acqua Alta, or exceptionally high water. This phenomenon, caused by unusually high tides, used to occur approximately every four years but since 2000 it has become much more frequent as sea levels rise due to global warming. The temporary walkways are constructed out of the sort of staging that schools use for drama productions and these can be seen stacked around the city close to where they will be needed. The routes are apparently effective for water levels rising up to about 120cm but beyond this even some of the walkways may be impassable if they are either submerged or floating. Robert has met Cinza, a local Venetian guide, through […]
Thursday 5th May 2022 Having arrived in Boston and deposited our bags, at the hotel, we took the Red Line subway from Andrew into the centre of Boston to walk around and get our bearings. Boston is proud of its revolutionary credentials and is full of landmarks and historical sites. The Freedom Trail is a walk around the city helpfully delineated by a red brick, or sometimes, painted red line. We started at Boston Common. There was a protest taking place on one side of Boston Common outside the Massachusetts State House which dates from 1798 and is the oldest continually running state capital building in America. Tours are available and we planned to visit the interior the following day. The Freedom Trail took us past Park Street Church and the Granary Burying Ground. This is the third oldest graveyard in Boston and the final resting place of several notable revolutionary patriots including Paul Revere and three of the people who signed the Declaration of Independence – Samuel Adams, John Hancock and Robert Treat Paine. There is also a memorial in the centre of the burying ground to the parents and relatives of Benjamin Franklin, who is himself buried in […]
Friday 25th to Sunday 27th of February 2022 We realise that there is a limit to the number of photos of locks, The Duke and The Duke at locks that we should include so we are aiming for pictorial diversification. Even though the pace of canal life is slow, with phones zipped in pockets to keep them safe and dry it is easy to miss some of the things we notice as we pass by: the long-haired cat yawning widely as it sunned itself in the front of a moored narrowboat; the three small dogs locked in a house looking out and two dogs, one small and one large locked out and looking in. Often what we miss is more engaging than the photos we do manage to take. As we moored up the day before, we heard shots and knew there would be no places to stop up ahead. Leaving Hopwas we passed the military firing range responsible and were proved right. Passing trade for crochet and lace must surely be limited at this time of year? We had noticed that several of the bridges had what looked like small windows on the side. Speculation about their use ranged […]
Friday 17th and Saturday 18th December 2021 When Robert suggested to Matilda that they could combine a festive visit to his parents with an evening trip to the Birmingham Christmas Market he failed to mention that this would involve revisiting many of his favourite hostelries and very little shopping. Not so much Christmas shopping as festive pub crawl. The market featured the usual brightly lit tree as well as . . . . . . Christmas songs and pop up street bars serving Birmingham lager. Chris Moose was also in attendance – see Selfie of the day. Robert felt the need to pop into a firm favourite, The Old Joint Stock, a Fullers pub and theatre housed in an old Victorian bank with a beautiful glass domed roof. The Colmore nearby also proved very hospitable and has been added to Robert’s list of favourite watering holes. A friend had recommended The Indian Brewery in Snow Hill in Birmingham and although we did not visit this time, we rather fortuitously found another branch as we got off the train in Solihull. The following day, after lunch with Robert’s parents and a successful exchange of gifts, we partook of a quiet nightcap […]
Saturday 11th September 2021 Once again there were limited boats we could catch from Tresco because of the extreme tides. However, this also meant that we would have more time on the island we visited. We therefore waved goodbye to the girls at our cottage and set off to catch a boat to St Mary’s. On the quayside, we saw the helicopter arrive, running only a little late, and watched as it left with the girls on board. Once on St Mary’s we set off to walk around the entire island. The coastal path goes up past Juliet’s and then on to . . . . . . the ancient Iron Age village at Halangy Down. The site was inhabited until around 600-700 AD and the ruins here were uncovered between 1964 and 1977. Much of the stone from the site was removed in the 19th century to build a new pier at Hugh Town. Providing you have line of sight to this modern telecoms tower, you can get a 4G signal on the islands so not everywhere is covered. St Mary’s is known as the site of the tower from which Marconi heard wireless signals transmitted over 30 miles […]
Tuesday 24th August 2021 Liz and Martin again gave us a lift to Porthmadog but this time they were joining us on the 10:15 Glaslyn Venturer from Porthmadog to Beddgelert. This time there was no need to position Matilda as gatekeeper of the carriage as we had pre-booked a premium spot in one of two observation compartments. There are panoramic windows, plush seats for six with small tables and, even at this hour in the morning, Matilda and Liz felt they should be sipping champagne wearing 1930s cocktail dresses. It seems not everyone was buying into the experience with the same enthusiasm. Instead of traversing The Cob, this time we set off in the opposite direction, through Porthmadog itself. We started the journey at the rear of the train with uninterrupted views back down the track. And being at the back of the train provides the opportunity . . . . . . to see the engine and the train as they curve around bends in the track in front. Hot air rises. We know this. But it was nevertheless eerie to see the steam emerging from an uphill tunnel behind us as though a Welsh dragon lurked within breathing […]
Tuesday 8th to Tuesday 15th September 2020 We decided to take advantage of the recently reinstated helicopter service for the last leg of the journey. The views from the helicopter are fantastic and it was such a pleasure to step out onto Tresco once again. Of course, Robert had to reacquaint himself with the New Inn, at the earliest opportunity. We have never been disappointed in the Isles of Scilly. Despite the limitations imposed by Covid restrictions, this trip to Tresco has been blessed by some beautiful sunny days and great company. This year’s highlights, although not always captured photographically, have included several picturesque pubs with panoramic views. The view from The Ruin Inn, Tresco, towards the Blockhouse and on to St Martins on the left is one of Robert’s all-time favourite bar views. We all enjoyed the mode of transport between islands and . . . . . . the sun, sea and sand. The Scillies feature many sweeping, sandy bays and this is the one next to to the cottage where we stay. One day we took the boat to the isle of St Agnes and found that the tide had uncovered what felt like a narrow tropical […]
Sunday 5th to Monday 6th January 2020 Two members of the Herd had to return to the UK to fulfil work and study commitments so having said a fond farewell to our beautiful offspring and the beautiful . . . . . . Apukka Resort [where you can stay in an ice cabin if you wish] . . . . . . we dropped them at the airport by taxi before going and depositing our bags in the luggage lockers at Rovaniemi train station. We then walked into the town to visit the shops and try to replace the gloves and hat we had lost the previous evening before heading to the Arktikum Science Centre and Museum. Extended exhibits show how native Finnish people have adapted to life within the Arctic Circle and the impact of global warming here. The museum has a strong ecological theme and it is a thought-provoking experience. The atrium is particularly impressive and its silhouette is a landmark in the city. Robert had been unable to book a sleeper berth for us for the overnight journey to Helsinki. Robert is normally very good at maintaining a spreadsheet detailing the first day all train tickets go on […]
Saturday, 16th November 2019 Today we travel from Marrackech to Casablanca by train. Marrakech Station is in the modern part of the city, as is our hotel. It is a bright sunny day so we decide to walk the 20 minute route to the station, straight along the wide, modern boulevard where the national flag predominates. Along the route we pass many modern buildings all built in the same red rendered style, typical of which is the Royal Theatre. The terminus station was built in 2008. It is clean, large, civilised and even has it’s own McDonald’s. This is the southern most point of the Moroccan railway system (ONCF). Our train was on time. As we leave Marrakech, travelling north, we go through arid, desert terrain. The journey to Casablanca is 138 miles long and is scheduled to take two and three quarter hours. The line between Marrakech and Casablanca was originally built as a narrow gauge 600mm (2ft) railway in the early 1920s by the French. Travelling by train allows you to relax, look out of the window and enjoy the views. As you travel north more vegetation is visible as the land becomes less arid. At one point […]
Tuesday 2 and Wednesday 3 July 2019 As the Calvi area is known for six kilometres of long white sandy beaches we decided to delay breakfast and start the day with a stroll along the bay and a refreshing swim. The beach is indeed sandy and slopes gently down so is ideal for children. In some places there is a thin band of brown and white pieces of vegetation floating where the sea meets the land, looking like sections of ticker tape streamers which we assume came from the bark and the cones of the nearby pine trees. But in general the sea is clear and you can see shoals of small fish casting shadows in the shallows which panic and scatter as you walk along in the surf. The beach has many cafes with rows of loungers and parasols for rent. We noticed the prices at one: €30 for the front row with prices decreasing as your proximity to the sea recedes. We opted to put our clothes in a pile out of the sea’s reach and enjoyed a cooling dip in the clear turquoise Mediterranean before returning to our hotel to wash off the sand and salt. Having […]
Saturday 24th – Monday 25th May 2019 Saturday dawned overcast and damp and we heard that flights to and from St Mary’s were cancelled because of the weather conditions so our decision to hire the boat the day before was vindicated. We took the ferry back to St Mary’s: Matilda had identified a few items she was considering buying and we took a short walk round the town, although the views and Star Castle were shrouded in mist. When we returned to Tresco Jaime and Ruth went to collect bicycles to use the following day and took an exploratory ride. Following massages to relieve accumulated back, neck and shoulder tension on Sunday morning, while Jaime and Ruth took to their bikes, Robert and Matilda opted to walk round the island, taking in both King Charles’ Castle and Cromwell’s Castle . . . . . . as well as spectacular views across the sandy bays . . . and beaches. . . . . . and the Tresco Abbey Gardens where the walkers reunited with the cyclists for refreshments. They say you can’t go back but we have thoroughly enjoyed returning to Tresco . . . . . . and hope […]
Thursday, 2nd May 2019 The Sagrada Familia is perhaps the more famous basilica, but Barcelona also has its own gothic cathedral: officially known as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Barcelona. Work started in 1298 and there are rows of secondary chapels within the buttresses as well as a cimborio – an octagonal lantern built over the crossing of a gothic cathedral. The entry fee includes a lift to the roof for the panoramic views . . . . . . and there is also a secluded cloister, with a pond which would have been a haven of peace and quiet were it not for the 13 white geese who are kept here, representing Saint Eulalia’s age when she was martyred. When we visited there seemed to be some rather loud and unsaintly goose behaviour going on. We had pre-booked our tickets for the Sagrada Familia, but as this is obviously a very popular attraction, we were limited to tickets quite late in the afternoon. You are advised to arrive 15 minutes before your allotted entry time to allow for the strict security checks. No liquids are allowed and bags and ruc sacs have to go through an airport security style […]
Saturday 9th March 2019 Today we are fulfilling an ambition which Robert has held since he first saw pictures of the trains on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway [DHR] over 40 years ago. When the 08:30 service from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling pulled into the station it was already just over an hour late. By the time the diesel had been refuelled; the engine moved to what would now be the front of the train; the passengers had videoed this and taken multiple photos of themselves with the train, it did not depart until 10:19. It then stopped again at a red signal at 10:23. The journey is timetabled to take seven hours and five minutes. We were off again at 10:26 but this did not bode well for us making up any time over the fifty five miles of the journey. The DHR is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Area. Initially the route takes you through the suburbs of Siliguri, past the ubiquitous cattle; past pigs rooting amongst the rubbish beside the track; past homes made of corrugated iron and reclaimed materials which are close enough to the tracks to touch; past butchers slaughtering chickens and weighing out meat and […]
Friday, 12th October to Saturday, 13th 2018 Robert was very pleased with the new domain he had created the day before and if Ralf’s concern when it was being packed up is any kind of indicator, he was also happy to have his territory clearly marked out. Matilda used her DryRobe for the walk to and from the showers. A hugely practical item, even if it does make her look like Tinky Winky. Having been undisturbed by falling acorns, packing up proved to be a much swifter process than setting up, taking about half the time. Robert has been known to berate his family for “faffing” however Matilda believes he took this to hitherto unscaled heights when he left for his “morning run” at 13:30. In his defence we did try out the washing machine for the first time and managed to wash and dry our clothes before we left. We drove on to Steyl to stay with friends for the week-end in the lovely peaceful grounds of an old monastery which has been converted into accommodation within a gated estate close to the river Maas. Saturday morning’s dog walk included a ferry across to the sunny side of the river […]
Friday, 10th August 2018 Our fifth train of this trip, departing at 08:23, took us on a two and a half hour journey to the city of Debrecen. Debrecen is the centre of the Northern Great Plain region and was the largest Hungarian city in the 18th century. As the site of the uprising, it is an important cultural centre and was the capital city during the Hungarian Revolution [1848–1849] when Lajos Kossuth declared the dethronement of the Habsburg dynasty in the Protestant Great Church of Debrecen. At the end of World War II Debrecen served as the capital of Hungary [1944–1945]. The Protestant Great Church of Debrecen provides quite a striking contrast to the decorative excess of Budapest’s Catholic St Stephen’s Basilica we visited yesterday. Debrecen currently has a population of 318,000. To put that into perspective, we live in Bromley, a commuter suburb of London, with a population of 309,000. In fact, Debrecen is about the size of Bromley, but is much quieter and there is little indication that it is home to that many people. The streets in the centre of town are restricted to trams and cyclists. It is a university town and the peace is perhaps in […]