Read this blog: The one where Matilda complains to Management Thursday 26th and Friday 27th March 2026 The day started with a rail journey. As regular readers will know, this holiday was originally planned to include far more train travel. Tragically, floods in November 2025 killed many Sri Lankans and washed away sections of the railway tracks in the scenic mountain regions. Indeed during this trip, we have been struck by the deep orange wounds in the landscape caused by rock slides and the mounds of fallen rock and soil where these wounds have been tended and the debris cleared from the roads and train tracks. Obviously, with Robert in charge, we arrived at Galle Station in good time for our train and as this is a terminus station we were able to see the engine being shunted from one end to the other of the train [see Video of the day]. Much of the south western coastal section of the track was destroyed in the 2004 tsunami but during our visit the rails between Galle to Columbo were unaffected and this picturesque seafront section was therefore one of the few journeys we were able to complete. The views were […]
2026
Read this blog: The one where we watch a cobra capture Tuesday 25th and Wednesday 26th March 2026 Once again there were very few other guests staying at our hotel but we enjoyed greeting the pond life on our way down to breakfast [see also Video of the day]. Galle lies on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka and is justifiably famous for Galle Fort, the 16th century fortified city founded by Portuguese colonists. We decided we would first walk the ramparts as this would take us past many of the historic sights. The old town of Galle and its fortifications are a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. It was first built in 1588 by the Portuguese, then extensively fortified by the Dutch from 1649 onwards before being taken over by the British. The entrance up to the fortifications [see Selfie of the day] was close to the Old Cricket Ground which is officially known as the Galle International Stadium and is considered to be one of the most picturesque cricket pitches in the world with views back towards the fort. This is clearly a relic from the British era. As we strolled along the ramparts, we first came across the […]
Read this blog: The one where we have two breakfasts Sunday 22nd and Monday 23rd March 2026 Sunday was another early start as we had booked to go whale watching. Once again we arose before dawn and Dilanka took us to the reception office of Mirissa Water Sports where we were both given a cup of coffee and Matilda was offered a sea sickness tablet. Maybe Robert was looking sufficiently nautical that they assumed he would not need one? We had met some other travellers earlier in the holiday who had advised us to accept the sea sickness pills when we were offered them. Matilda however had planned ahead. She took the advice of Matt, a seasoned sailor who joined us in Tresco last year, who suggested taking a tablet the day before as well as one on the morning of travel. We had asked Dilanka if he would be coming with us but he suffers quite severely from sea sickness and informed us he was definitely staying on dry land. Matilda was glad she had taken the tablets. Staff then escorted us through the vibrant Mirissa Fisheries Harbour to board the boat. As well as fixed seating towards the rear of […]
Read this blog: The one where we spot a Sri Lankan Leopard Saturday 21st March 2026 There was torrential rain overnight so by the time the alarm went off at 04:30, neither of us had had much sleep but the best time to see the animals at Yala National Park is at dawn or dusk. Yala National Park is vast, covering a protected area of 979km2 [about 378 square miles or 103,889 hectares] and is divided into five blocks. It is the second largest national park in the country after Wilpattu National Park which is approximately 1,317 km2. Dilanka picked us up at 05:30 and drove us to meet our jeep safari driver/guide who in turn drove us to the ticket booth and paid for our entry. Although the sign read Ruhunu [Yala] National Park, it seems to be universally referred to as Yala National Park. Park Rangers checked the number of people in the jeep matched the number paid for on the ticket. Apparently around 600 drivers are licensed to take jeep safaris into the park although not all are permitted to work at the same time. A further 150 have submitted applications for permits. After a brief time […]
Read the blog: The one where we see a rare Star Tortoise Thursday 19 and Friday 20th March 2026 Although we could not travel on all the trains as originally envisaged, Robert wanted to visit the Nine Arch Bridge. Rail enthusiasts are advised to plan their visit to coincide with a train so obviously, we timed our visit accordingly. On the basis that a viaduct links two higher points across a valley or gorge, Matilda had not expected the walk down to the site to be so long. As we walked down Dilanka told us about a wasp attack at the bridge on a tourist the previous day: apparently a lot of wasp nests have been built under the arches although it was not clear what had provoked the attack. He also told us about another client he had brought here who seemed to start bleeding spontaneously. Having administered first aid, he discovered a very thin, small leech [so therefore still hungry rather than being swollen and engorged with blood] had attached itself between two of her toes. He advised us against walking off the path and in the grass. He also told us of a local treatment to stem […]
Read this blog: The one where Matilda is touched by greatness Tuesday 17th and Wednesday 18th March 2026 We awoke early in time to see the sunrise from our balcony. We had already decided we would go for some retail therapy in Ella and the hotel ordered us a tuk tuk to take us down the hill after breakfast. The main thoroughfare in Ella is called Badulla Road and is lined with bars, many with balconies overlooking the road, and small shops selling clothing and tourist mementoes. Anyone who has shopped with Robert will know that he does not really understand the concept of browsing. We had to walk up one side and then down the other to make sure we had seen all the merchandise on offer. Robert found a shirt on the reduced rail in one shop and pronounced the shopping trip over and an outstanding success. We did not feel we should spend the whole day in the town as this might lead to further purchases which we could not reasonably expect to fit in our luggage. We returned to the hotel so Matilda could try out the pool. Although the views were spectacular [see below], there […]
Read this blog: The one where we do actually travel the scenic route by train in Sri Lanka Monday 16th March 2026 The train route from Ella to Kandy was part of the more extensive Hill Country Line, and Sri Lanka Railways describes this stretch of the track as being the most “scenic section of the trip”. Unfortunately the trains are not currently departing from Kandy but Walkers Tours [who also provided our car and driver] had booked two seats in Observation Class for us to travel from Ambewela to Ella on the 09:30 train. We travelled by the rail replacement service from Nuwara Eliya to Ambewela Station to catch the train [see also Selfie of the day]. The route is popular and passengers are advised to buy tickets and book a reserved seat for this trip two to three months in advance. When we arrived at the station, about an hour before the scheduled departure time, there were queues of people waiting to buy tickets. A handwritten sign pinned to a door frame also warned people that the 13:30 departure was already fully booked. The original historic train carriages have long since been replaced by modern rolling stock painted […]
Read this blog: The one where Matilda would like to send postcards Sunday 15th March 2026 After the delicious welcome snack of chocolate dipped strawberries which the hotel provided on our arrival [see previous blog post], Matilda had been hopeful that strawberries would be readily available at breakfast. Sadly they never made a repeat appearance, despite us being in a prime strawberry growing area. Surprisingly there was a jar of pickled Scotch Bonnet peppers but it did not look as though this had never been opened. Matilda felt strawberries would have been far more popular. Nuwara Eliya means the ‘city on the plain’ and we used PickMe to order a tuk tuk to take us from our hotel in the hills down into the town. Nuwara Eliya Post Office is a fine building and also a major central landmark so we asked to be dropped there. One of the oldest post offices in Sri Lanka, the Nuwara Eliya Post Office was built by the British in 1894, rather unusually, in a red brick Tudor style with a clock tower. In June 2017 the United Postal Trade Union went on a three-day strike in a successful protest against the government’s plans […]
Read this blog: The one where we approve of dipped strawberries Friday 13th and Saturday 14th March 2026 After breakfast we went for a short stroll round Kandy, past the ubiquitous Clock Tower. The majority of places we have visited have one. They were built predominantly by the British as a central landmark to help people to find their way around the town. In some instances they are also memorials. We then went to look at the Municipal Central Market. Many tourists seemed to be buying spices and Matilda was quite tempted to take some vanilla pods home, having seen them recently growing in a spice garden, but was not sure if this was a permitted import to the UK. In the afternoon, the monkeys made a return appearance on the balcony where they seemed to be interested in coming inside. On Saturday we had originally planned that we would get the train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya which is also known as ‘Little England’. Unfortunately this section is not yet running after the cyclone damage at the end of last year. We therefore made the journey by car and the driver took us to a number of sights on […]
Read this blog: The one where we are confused by currency rates Thursday 12th March 2026 We decided to book a car to take us to some of the more out-lying sites and asked the hotel to arrange this while we were having brreakfast. The man on reception came back to us and quoted a price. We both put this into the currency converter in the calculator on our iPhones and came out with very different numbers. Robert initially thought it would cost the equivalent of about £15 whereas Matilda’s converted figure was closer to £40. Robert agreed to book the car and we noted the different conversion rates afterwards but we are now wary of believing the iPhone currency conversion rates. The actual price was closer to the figure Matilda had seen. When Robert went to reception to pay for the car in advance, he also collected our laundry and was told that they had never done so much laundry for a guest ever before. Robert explained our system of travelling light with about ten days’ worth of clothes and getting them washed when we have a few days in the same hotel. Our first stop in the car […]
Read this blog: The one where we have breakfast with elephants Tuesday 10th and Wednesday 11th March 2026 An adult elephant is obviously very strong and weighs between three and five tons. As we had breakfast we watched one of the new elephants break out of one of his chains. He was clearly unhappy or angry at being restrained. We both found it hard to watch as he flailed his feet and trunk in the water but we understood that the mahouts are experienced and know how best to manage the introduction of new animals to the herd. Hopefully he will be integrated soon. Once again it was reassuring that front of house staff made sure to talk to guests to explain the situation. As the waiter had assured us the night before, egg hoppers were indeed available for breakfast. These are a traditional dish which we had been wanting to sample. They are made by swirling slightly sweet batter [made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk] around a curved pan then, once this is sufficiently set, breaking an egg into the pancake shell, mixing it up slightly and covering it all with a lid while it cooks. The […]
Read this blog: The one where we are talked into a three course meal Monday 9th March 2026 Today we had a date with pachyderms so we knew we needed to leave our hotel promptly. Breakfast service started at 07:00 and we were downstairs in the restaurant right on time. We had been forewarned that it would be an a la carte service rather than a buffet. This was not explicitly stated but we assumed, with so few guests due to the events in the Middle East, that this was a sensible decision intended to save wastage. We also assumed, mistakenly as it turned out, that with only a few people to cater for, the service would be swift and efficient. Despite allowing 30 minutes for breakfast and checkout we were slightly delayed and left just shortly after time we had planned. Returning along a route we had already travelled we saw the same elephant in almost exactly the same place and once again stopped to admire him. Dilanka suggested a slight detour off our route to visit the Nalanda Gedige said to be the centre of Sri Lanka. As Robert is fond of telling people that Solihull, where he […]
Read this blog: The one where we discover about toe alignment Sunday 8th March 2026 Today we planned to visit Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s second capital city and another extensive ruined site. The ancient capital at Anuradhapura was destroyed in 993 BCE by Chola invaders from southern India [now the state of Tamil Nadu] who ruled for about the next 75 years. In 1077 King Vijayabahu I, having commanded separate armies to attack Polonnaruwa on three fronts and besieged the city for seven months, eventually gained control and became king. Polonnaruwa then became Sri Lanka’s second capital and continued in this capacity from the 11th to the 13th centuries. King Vijayabahu I‘s grandson, King Parakramabahu I [1153 -1186], also known as Parakramabahu the Great, is celebrated in a 11 foot [3.4m] tall statue carved from a single block of granite and dating from the 12th century. Located near Pothgul Vihara, this was our first stop. Pothgul Vihara means ‘Library Shrine’ and the site comprises both library and monastic remains. There is some debate about what King Parakramabahu I is holding: a yoke for oxen or a leaf manuscript but he is certainly very simply dressed for a monarch. King Parakramabahu I united […]
Read this blog: The one where we walk in the footsteps of Duran Duran Saturday 7th March 2026 Our chauffeur/guide, Dilanka, had recommended that we get to the fortified citadel at Sigiriya for sunrise as this would allow us to climb the rock in the comparative cool of the early morning and avoid the crowds. We dutifully set an alarm for 04:45 so that we could leave the hotel at 05:30 and set off in darkness. The day gradually dawned and by the time we reached this historic site the sun was rising. We had not realised that the fortifications would include a moat. Once past the moat, the citadel is approached through the Royal Gardens which comprise a water, boulder and terrace gardens. Perhaps to lull visitors into a false sense of ease, the rock formations over the first steps conceal the extent of the challenge awaiting. The rock is 1,144 feet [349 metres] above sea level and about 600 feet [180 metres] above the surrounding plain. King Kashyapa [CE 477–495], though not the legitimate heir, seized the throne from his father and chose this for the site of his new capital. Many sources state there are 1,200 steps to the […]
Read this blog: The one where we find an unexpected use for toilet paper Friday 6th March 2026 After a relative lie-in, we checked out at 09:00 and Dilanka drove us to see the Aukana Temple which houses a statue of the Buddha, carved directly out of the granite. Created in the fifth century and set in a shallow alcove, the Buddha stands 42 feet [12m] tall on a lotus pedestal, facing east [see feature photo]. The carving of the material in the robe demonstrates particular expertise as it appears transparent with the undergarment [andanakada] visible. The statue would have originally been housed in a pilimage or image house but is now open to the elements with a metal canopy to protect it from the elements. Added later was the siraspatha – the flame-like ornament on the Buddha’s head – which signifies the flame of enlightenment and is similar to a halo in the Christian tradition. Signs at temples forbid selfies as it is disrespectful to turn your back on his image but Dilanka offered to take a photo for us and we were asked to turn sideways slightly [see not quite Selfie of the day]. Dilanka also showed us […]
Read this blog: The one where we visit the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka Thursday 5th March 2026 We opted for another early start to try and avoid being out in the midday sun. Our first stop was the Mihintale Rock Temple on Missaka Pabbata – a mountain peak which is about 1,000 feet [300 m] high. According to legend, Mahinda Thera met King Devanampiyatissa of Sri Lanka on this hilltop and discussed the teachings of Buddha with him, thereby bringing Buddhism to Sri Lanka in the third century BCE. Mihintale is a contraction of Mihin-Thalé which means ‘Mahinda’s hill’. Visitors must climb a granite staircase and although the guidebooks say there are 1840 steps to the top, our guide informed us that we had already circumvented 400 of them by being driven to the car park. The steps are shaded by frangipani trees. For both of these things, we were truly grateful. On a terrace stands the Sela Cetiya Stupa, also known as the Ambasthala Dagoba, which was built to enshrine a relic of the Buddha, specifically, the Urna Roma, or hair located between the eyebrows. Buddha is also said to have visited this location on the third occasion he […]