Read this blog: The one where we learn the difference between Stephen and Stitt
Wednesday 26th February 2025
We were given breakfast vouchers as we checked in at the Holiday Inn Causeway Bay and when we made our way down to the restaurant on the second floor [which is only open to residents for breakfast and is a restaurant in the evening] these were exchanged for a printed sheet on which to mark our choices.
Breakfast comprised a selection of four possible meals, so that if we wanted to we could have a different breakfast every day and try them all. For the first morning we both chose the egg and kale omelette.
Fortified for a days sightseeing and with our Octopus app at the ready we set off on Robert’s pre-planned sightseeing route towards Exchange Square, home to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange since the 1980s.
Nearby Statue Square was built at the end of the 19th century entirely on reclaimed land. At the time it was named for the many statues, mostly of members of the British royal family, which stood here until the Japanese removed them when they occupied Hong Kong during WWII.
Now the only statue to adorn the square is of Sir Thomas Jackson, who was chief manager of the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation [HSBC]. Matilda also demanded a photo of the historic green post box in the square to send to her niece, Meg.
The public transport systems in Hong Kong are very efficient and we were particularly impressed with the narrow two-decker trams which are very frequent and accept payment by Octopus.
The trams are mobile advertisements for anything and everything including public health campaigns such as the colorectal cancer screening programme [see below].
The entrance to HSBC’s head office here is guarded by a pair of bronze lion sculptures. They were nicknamed Stephen and Stitt in the 1920s after two of HSBCs senior managers. The two are easily distinguishable. Stephen is open-mouthed [possibly mid-roar] while Stitt [not shown] has his mouth closed. The lions also appear outside other HSBC offices including those in Shanghai, London and Birmingham.
The Neo-Classical red brick and granite building known as the Former French Mission Building has served many purposes and was at different times the home of the first Governor of Hong Kong; premises for HSBC; the Russian Consulate in the 1870s and Hong Kong’s Court of Final Appeal from 1 July 1997 to 6 September 2015.
One hundred years earlier, in 1915, it was acquired by the Paris Foreign Missions Society [hence the name] which commissioned some renovation work including the addition of a chapel topped by a cupola in the north-west corner. At this time the red brick facing was added. It opened in this form in 1917 and became known henceforth as the “French Mission Building”.
Close by is the privately owned Cheung Kong Park. Features include ponds and cascades which are maintained by the owner: Cheung Kong Holdings.
Walking through Cheung Kong Park you reach St John’s Cathedral which is built on the only freehold land in Hong Kong. All other land is leasehold. St John’s Cathedral opened in 1849 and is the oldest Anglican church in the Far East. The building itself is relatively plain.
The glass in the windows along the sides of the church is clear and unusually when we visited the windows were open. During their Occupation, the Japanese converted the cathedral into a club and many of the original fittings were stripped out, including the original stained glass windows, created by the English firm of William Morris.
In the grounds there is something described as a ‘Christian labyrinth’. We were not aware that labyrinth’s could identify with a specific religion. The sign describes this as ‘a sacred space for a prayer walk – a tradition dating back to mediaeval times’. The path’s twists and turns are intended to represent a journey through life towards God. Matilda started to follow the path towards enlightenment but as Robert had already walked away, she never made it to a state of grace.
Surprisingly Hong Kong Park is relatively new having opened in 1991.
It was built on land which was formerly part of the Victoria Barracks and some of the military buildings have been retained including Flagstaff House.
Built in the Greek Revival style in 1846 it is the oldest example of Western-style architecture remaining in Hong Kong. It served as the residence of the Commander of the British forces in Hong Kong during colonial times and is now home to the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware.
The 42 storey Lippo Centre, previously known as the Bond Centre, towers behind this historic landmark. Apparently, locals liken the ‘C’ shapes on the sides of the building to koalas climbing a tree which is really not such a stretch of the imagination.
The pond in Hong Kong Park is home to turtles as well as fish.
Continuing our walk we passed St Joseph’s Church. The original building was completed in 1872 but was destroyed shortly afterwards in the 1874 Hong Kong typhoon. It was rebuilt in 1876 but demolished in 1967. Now the striking blue Catholic church, which opened in 1968, is dwarfed by flyovers and skyscrapers.
Walking on up we passed Government House, on Government Hill, which was the official residence of the Governor of Hong Kong from 1855 to 1997 when the territory was under British rule. It is now the official residence of the Chief Executive of Hong Kong. The Colonial Renaissance style building was remodelled during the Japanese Occupaton resulting in a hybrid style combining neoclassical and Japanese elements. It is not open to the public but Robert asked the guards on the gate if he could take a photograph and they kindly got out of the way for him.
Continuing downhill we came to the Old Dairy Farm Depot which was built in 1892 as a cold storage warehouse and was subsequently enlarged to include a shop and a room for smoking meat. This lovely striped building is described as having polychromatic “bandaged” brickworks. It is now home to the Foreign Correspondents Club [FCC] and the Fringe Club.
Tai Kwun, the former Central Police Station in Hong Kong and an imposing complex of buildings, is now a heritage site and museum and Matilda plans to visit rather than simply passing by when we return to Hong Kong (Robert is planning returning for the Hong Kong Sevens).
The terrain in Hong Kong is challenging, with many steep hills, gradients and steps. So challenging in fact that in 1993 the Central – Mid-Levels Escalator and walkway system was opened.
This is the longest outdoor sheltered escalator system in the world and covers over 800 m (2,600 ft) in distance and rises over 135 m [443 ft] from bottom to top.
Walking down the Ladder Stairs is easier once you have travelled up by escalator.
Back on lower ground we visited the Mo Man Temple. Man Mo temples are dedicated to the god of literature [Man Tai or Man Cheong] and the martial god [Mo Tai or Quan Tai]. This was a popular combination which scholars in the Ming and Qing dynasties seeking career advancement patronised. There are apparently several Man Mo temples in Hong Kong, the best-known of which is the one in Sheung Wan which we visited. It comprises three adjacent single storey buildings.
Inside the air was thick with incense.
We went in search of the Hong Kong Hard Rock Café only to discover, after much confusion and aimless wandering, that it had closed. The high rise buildings mean that the GPS signal is not always accurate on Google maps and it was not until a local man asked if he could help us as we were standing outside where we thought the Hard Rock should be that we learned the truth. Robert found a craft beer bar instead to assuage his disappointment.
On our way to catch public transport back to our hotel we walked through several small alleyways where bustling markets were doing a good trade.
We took the tram home [see Video and Selfie of the day] past Statue Square where the Neo-Classical Court of Appeal building was illuminated.
Video of the day:
Selfie of the day:
Route Map:
