Read this blog: The one where Matilda is touched by greatness Tuesday 17th and Wednesday 18th March 2026 We awoke early in time to see the sunrise from our balcony. We had already decided we would go for some retail therapy in Ella and the hotel ordered us a tuk tuk to take us down the hill after breakfast. The main thoroughfare in Ella is called Badulla Road and is lined with bars, many with balconies overlooking the road, and small shops selling clothing and tourist mementoes. Anyone who has shopped with Robert will know that he does not really understand the concept of browsing. We had to walk up one side and then down the other to make sure we had seen all the merchandise on offer. Robert found a shirt on the reduced rail in one shop and pronounced the shopping trip over and an outstanding success. We did not feel we should spend the whole day in the town as this might lead to further purchases which we could not reasonably expect to fit in our luggage. We returned to the hotel so Matilda could try out the pool. Although the views were spectacular [see below], there […]
Sri Lanka
Read this blog: The one where we do actually travel the scenic route by train in Sri Lanka Monday 16th March 2026 The train route from Ella to Kandy was part of the more extensive Hill Country Line, and Sri Lanka Railways describes this stretch of the track as being the most “scenic section of the trip”. Unfortunately the trains are not currently departing from Kandy but Walkers Tours [who also provided our car and driver] had booked two seats in Observation Class for us to travel from Ambewela to Ella on the 09:30 train. We travelled by the rail replacement service from Nuwara Eliya to Ambewela Station to catch the train [see also Selfie of the day]. The route is popular and passengers are advised to buy tickets and book a reserved seat for this trip two to three months in advance. When we arrived at the station, about an hour before the scheduled departure time, there were queues of people waiting to buy tickets. A handwritten sign pinned to a door frame also warned people that the 13:30 departure was already fully booked. The original historic train carriages have long since been replaced by modern rolling stock painted […]
Read this blog: The one where Matilda would like to send postcards Sunday 15th March 2026 After the delicious welcome snack of chocolate dipped strawberries which the hotel provided on our arrival [see previous blog post], Matilda had been hopeful that strawberries would be readily available at breakfast. Sadly they never made a repeat appearance, despite us being in a prime strawberry growing area. Surprisingly there was a jar of pickled Scotch Bonnet peppers but it did not look as though this had never been opened. Matilda felt strawberries would have been far more popular. Nuwara Eliya means the ‘city on the plain’ and we used PickMe to order a tuk tuk to take us from our hotel in the hills down into the town. Nuwara Eliya Post Office is a fine building and also a major central landmark so we asked to be dropped there. One of the oldest post offices in Sri Lanka, the Nuwara Eliya Post Office was built by the British in 1894, rather unusually, in a red brick Tudor style with a clock tower. In June 2017 the United Postal Trade Union went on a three-day strike in a successful protest against the government’s plans […]
Read this blog: The one where we approve of dipped strawberries Friday 13th and Saturday 14th March 2026 After breakfast we went for a short stroll round Kandy, past the ubiquitous Clock Tower. The majority of places we have visited have one. They were built predominantly by the British as a central landmark to help people to find their way around the town. In some instances they are also memorials. We then went to look at the Municipal Central Market. Many tourists seemed to be buying spices and Matilda was quite tempted to take some vanilla pods home, having seen them recently growing in a spice garden, but was not sure if this was a permitted import to the UK. In the afternoon, the monkeys made a return appearance on the balcony where they seemed to be interested in coming inside. On Saturday we had originally planned that we would get the train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya which is also known as ‘Little England’. Unfortunately this section is not yet running after the cyclone damage at the end of last year. We therefore made the journey by car and the driver took us to a number of sights on […]
Read this blog: The one where we are confused by currency rates Thursday 12th March 2026 We decided to book a car to take us to some of the more out-lying sites and asked the hotel to arrange this while we were having brreakfast. The man on reception came back to us and quoted a price. We both put this into the currency converter in the calculator on our iPhones and came out with very different numbers. Robert initially thought it would cost the equivalent of about £15 whereas Matilda’s converted figure was closer to £40. Robert agreed to book the car and we noted the different conversion rates afterwards but we are now wary of believing the iPhone currency conversion rates. The actual price was closer to the figure Matilda had seen. When Robert went to reception to pay for the car in advance, he also collected our laundry and was told that they had never done so much laundry for a guest ever before. Robert explained our system of travelling light with about ten days’ worth of clothes and getting them washed when we have a few days in the same hotel. Our first stop in the car […]
Read this blog: The one where we have breakfast with elephants Tuesday 10th and Wednesday 11th March 2026 An adult elephant is obviously very strong and weighs between three and five tons. As we had breakfast we watched one of the new elephants break out of one of his chains. He was clearly unhappy or angry at being restrained. We both found it hard to watch as he flailed his feet and trunk in the water but we understood that the mahouts are experienced and know how best to manage the introduction of new animals to the herd. Hopefully he will be integrated soon. Once again it was reassuring that front of house staff made sure to talk to guests to explain the situation. As the waiter had assured us the night before, egg hoppers were indeed available for breakfast. These are a traditional dish which we had been wanting to sample. They are made by swirling slightly sweet batter [made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk] around a curved pan then, once this is sufficiently set, breaking an egg into the pancake shell, mixing it up slightly and covering it all with a lid while it cooks. The […]
Read this blog: The one where we are talked into a three course meal Monday 9th March 2026 Today we had a date with pachyderms so we knew we needed to leave our hotel promptly. Breakfast service started at 07:00 and we were downstairs in the restaurant right on time. We had been forewarned that it would be an a la carte service rather than a buffet. This was not explicitly stated but we assumed, with so few guests due to the events in the Middle East, that this was a sensible decision intended to save wastage. We also assumed, mistakenly as it turned out, that with only a few people to cater for, the service would be swift and efficient. Despite allowing 30 minutes for breakfast and checkout we were slightly delayed and left just shortly after time we had planned. Returning along a route we had already travelled we saw the same elephant in almost exactly the same place and once again stopped to admire him. Dilanka suggested a slight detour off our route to visit the Nalanda Gedige said to be the centre of Sri Lanka. As Robert is fond of telling people that Solihull, where he […]
Read this blog: The one where we discover about toe alignment Sunday 8th March 2026 Today we planned to visit Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s second capital city and another extensive ruined site. The ancient capital at Anuradhapura was destroyed in 993 BCE by Chola invaders from southern India [now the state of Tamil Nadu] who ruled for about the next 75 years. In 1077 King Vijayabahu I, having commanded separate armies to attack Polonnaruwa on three fronts and besieged the city for seven months, eventually gained control and became king. Polonnaruwa then became Sri Lanka’s second capital and continued in this capacity from the 11th to the 13th centuries. King Vijayabahu I‘s grandson, King Parakramabahu I [1153 -1186], also known as Parakramabahu the Great, is celebrated in a 11 foot [3.4m] tall statue carved from a single block of granite and dating from the 12th century. Located near Pothgul Vihara, this was our first stop. Pothgul Vihara means ‘Library Shrine’ and the site comprises both library and monastic remains. There is some debate about what King Parakramabahu I is holding: a yoke for oxen or a leaf manuscript but he is certainly very simply dressed for a monarch. King Parakramabahu I united […]
Read this blog: The one where we walk in the footsteps of Duran Duran Saturday 7th March 2026 Our chauffeur/guide, Dilanka, had recommended that we get to the fortified citadel at Sigiriya for sunrise as this would allow us to climb the rock in the comparative cool of the early morning and avoid the crowds. We dutifully set an alarm for 04:45 so that we could leave the hotel at 05:30 and set off in darkness. The day gradually dawned and by the time we reached this historic site the sun was rising. We had not realised that the fortifications would include a moat. Once past the moat, the citadel is approached through the Royal Gardens which comprise a water, boulder and terrace gardens. Perhaps to lull visitors into a false sense of ease, the rock formations over the first steps conceal the extent of the challenge awaiting. The rock is 1,144 feet [349 metres] above sea level and about 600 feet [180 metres] above the surrounding plain. King Kashyapa [CE 477–495], though not the legitimate heir, seized the throne from his father and chose this for the site of his new capital. Many sources state there are 1,200 steps to the […]
Read this blog: The one where we find an unexpected use for toilet paper Friday 6th March 2026 After a relative lie-in, we checked out at 09:00 and Dilanka drove us to see the Aukana Temple which houses a statue of the Buddha, carved directly out of the granite. Created in the fifth century and set in a shallow alcove, the Buddha stands 42 feet [12m] tall on a lotus pedestal, facing east [see feature photo]. The carving of the material in the robe demonstrates particular expertise as it appears transparent with the undergarment [andanakada] visible. The statue would have originally been housed in a pilimage or image house but is now open to the elements with a metal canopy to protect it from the elements. Added later was the siraspatha – the flame-like ornament on the Buddha’s head – which signifies the flame of enlightenment and is similar to a halo in the Christian tradition. Signs at temples forbid selfies as it is disrespectful to turn your back on his image but Dilanka offered to take a photo for us and we were asked to turn sideways slightly [see not quite Selfie of the day]. Dilanka also showed us […]
Read this blog: The one where we visit the cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka Thursday 5th March 2026 We opted for another early start to try and avoid being out in the midday sun. Our first stop was the Mihintale Rock Temple on Missaka Pabbata – a mountain peak which is about 1,000 feet [300 m] high. According to legend, Mahinda Thera met King Devanampiyatissa of Sri Lanka on this hilltop and discussed the teachings of Buddha with him, thereby bringing Buddhism to Sri Lanka in the third century BCE. Mihintale is a contraction of Mihin-Thalé which means ‘Mahinda’s hill’. Visitors must climb a granite staircase and although the guidebooks say there are 1840 steps to the top, our guide informed us that we had already circumvented 400 of them by being driven to the car park. The steps are shaded by frangipani trees. For both of these things, we were truly grateful. On a terrace stands the Sela Cetiya Stupa, also known as the Ambasthala Dagoba, which was built to enshrine a relic of the Buddha, specifically, the Urna Roma, or hair located between the eyebrows. Buddha is also said to have visited this location on the third occasion he […]
Read this blog: The one where Robert has a communication from aliens Wednesday, 4th March 2026 We woke up to find that it was rather overcast and were quite pleased as we felt that this would make the day cooler for our planned sightseeing. Anuradhapura was founded in 377BC by King Pandukabhaya and was the religious and political heart of the kingdom for over 1300 years until 993AD making it Sri Lanka’s first and longest serving capital. This UNESCO World Heritage site covers 40 km² and we saw only a fraction of this in our five hours of sightseeing. Thankfully Dilanka drove us between the major sites. There are the remains of three great monasteries within the historic site of the ancient city at Anuradhapura: Mahavihara, Abhayagiri, and Jetavanarama. These monasteries were the centres of Theravada, Mahayana, and Vajrayana Buddhism, respectively. The Mahavihara monastery is the oldest and most prestigious of the three and we went there first. Within the complex stands the Ruwanweliseya Stupa, also known as the Great Stupa. It is said to contain the largest amount of the Buddha’s remains held in one place, variously described as one eighth of his relics or two quarts [four pints or half a […]
Read this blog: The one where we experience robot room service Monday 2nd and Tuesday 3rd March 2026 In Sri Lanka, every full moon day is a public holiday, known as a “poya” in Sinhala [Sri Lankan]. It is a day for Buddhists to visit temples for religious observances and there are 13 or 14 poyas per year. Each one has a different name and the one in March is the Madin Poya celebrating the Buddha’s first visit, after attaining enlightenment, to his place of birth at his father’s palace. The full moon in March is also known as the Worm Moon symbolising the transition from winter to spring when the ground thaws and worms reappear, although here in Sri Lanka it is hard to imagine the ground ever freezes. Actually at its brightest at 17:07 on March 3rd this year, the full moon is nevertheless being celebrated on March 2nd here. Consequently many businesses, offices and restaurants are closed and no alcohol is sold. With this in mind we planned to visit the Lotus Tower, Colombo’s tallest landmark, which we knew would be open [see Selfie of the day]. Entry is US$20 per person for foreigners which is very expensive […]
Read this blog: The one where Robert meets an old school friend in Sri Lanka Saturday 28th February and Sunday 1st March 2026 After the excitement of the T20 cricket, we woke early and returned from our overnight hotel, near the stadium, to have breakfast at our central hotel then set off to explore the sights of Colombo, taking a tuk tuk to St Lucia’s Cathedral as the start of our route. The current building was completed in 1902 and St Lucia’s is the oldest and largest parish cathedral in Sri Lanka. Ionic columns adorn the facade along with seven statues along the skyline. We took another tuk tuk to the Grand Mosque and from here we decided to walk to. . . . . . St Anthony’s Shrine which dates from the early Dutch Colonial period when Catholicism was banned and Catholic priests would conduct services in secret. Our research informed us that a reliquary in a glass case at the entrance is deemed sacred because it contains a tiny piece of St. Anthony’s tongue. We were surprised to see a man crawl under the cabinet and subsequently realised that he was demonstrating his reverence by crawling under the relic. […]
Read this blog: The one where we attend our first international cricket game overseas Friday 27th February 2026 In 1907 Negombo was connected to the extensive railway network which the British were building in Sri Lanka to streamline the transportation of produce including coconuts, tea and coffee from the cool hill plantations down to the ports. Winding through thick jungle, across mountains and along dramatic coastlines it became known as one of the most picturesque railway networks in the world. Robert designed and booked this trip around some of his bucket list train journeys up to the plantations but the second set back on this tour is that many train services in Sri Lanka are not currently running normally. We knew before we left the UK that, sadly, extreme weather in November 2025 had caused severe flooding which had resulted in several deaths and damaged the railways. Heavy rainfall caused landslides which washed away sections of track and weakened embankments and bridges. Large sections of the track were subsequently impassable, particularly in the more challenging mountainous areas where the terrain is steep. Before trains can run safely again, the land has to be properly stabilised and the infrastructure rebuilt. The […]
Read this blog: The one where we can’t hire a tuk tuk Wednesday 25th and Thursday 26th February 2026 We were told that we had to get to the airport three hours before our scheduled flight time. This meant setting an alarm for 05:15 which was not ideal for two people still adjusting to a five hour time difference. Despite the fact that we had both been wide awake at about 01:00, we were sound asleep when the alarm went off. Although Über is available, PickMe is the most commonly used ride-hailing app in Sri Lanka and it was recommended to us by local people for booking tuk tuks and cars. We had a very minimalist and disappointing breakfast: confusingly despite it being Ramadan the full service did not start till after sunrise. Robert then booked a small car on PickMe to take us and our luggage to the airport. However, when we arrived at Velana International Airport we were shown a notice which gave the time that passengers for each flight were to be admitted into the departures hall. Our designated time was 06:30 and we were waved to one side to wait for eight minutes. As it turned out […]