Read this blog: The one where the cracks keep appearing
Thursday 6th March
We decided to walk the walls of Intramuros as our introduction to Manila. One of the walkways up to the ramparts was conveniently positioned just outside our hotel. The walls are very nearly complete and Robert decreed we should walk clockwise.
Our first stop was at Baluarte De San Diego on the southwest corner of the Intramuros walls. The fortification is shaped like an arrow with a circular tower inside and dates from the sixteenth century. There is a small park surrounding the bastion which includes landmarks, monuments and fountains, including the frame of a steam engine which Robert was pleased to see was British made.
The bastion was built in 1587 and was meant to be part of a larger fortification which was never completed. The Fort Nuestra Señora de Guia [below] is the oldest stone fort in Manila and is the remains of the central circular tower. Shortly after it was built, in 1593, the upper portion had to be demolished after cracks appeared. Subsequently the rest of the structure was reinforced and integrated into a new bulwark which was named Baluarte de San Diego. The structure suffered earthquake damage and during the American occupation this area was largely filled in, saving it from further destruction during the Battle of Manila in 1945.
Also during the American period of occupation, the moat surrounding Intramuros was filled in and turned into a public golf course. There were warnings about low flying balls. We were not sure, however, that any of the people we had seen on the golf course had the technique to make a ball travel that far or that fast.
There are also various secluded arbors within the park at Baluarte de San Diego.
Back on the walls, we watched and waved at people on the Club Intramuros Golf Course.
We also passed the President’s Gallery inside the walls on Santa Lucia Street. A display of large plaques commemorate the sixteen presidents of the Philippines, from Emilio Aguinaldo onwards. Although these are simple, almost stylised portraits, we were not sure that all of the subjects would have been impressed with their likeness.
Also inside the walls stands San Agustin Church, one of four Baroque churches in the Philippines to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Completed in 1607, it is the oldest stone church in the country. It originally had two bell towers. In 1880, an earthquake damaged the church, cracking the tower on the left from top to bottom and it was subsequently demolished, leaving only the base.
The interior features intricate trompe-l’œil painting creating the impression of three dimensional carvings.
The Japanese held hundreds of local people and clergy hostage in San Agustin Church during the Battle of Manila and many did not survive. Close by on Plaza de Santa Isabel is the Memorare – Manila 1945 monument, a poignant memorial dedicated to all those who died during the fierce battle for the liberation of Manila, waged by Filipino and American forces against Imperial Japanese troops from February 3, 1945, to March 3, 1945.
There are displays giving a timeline for the battle and detailing the atrocities perpetrated by the Japanese on the Filipino people which is very painful to read even at this distance in time. We visited just three days after the 80th anniversary of end of the Battle of Manila.
From here we continued on to see Manila Cathedral. The official name for Manila Cathedral is Minor basilica and Metropolitan Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception and it is possibly the most ill-fated cathedral we have ever visited.
The first simple bamboo and palm tree structure was erected here in 1571. Ten years later it was converted into a cathedral but unfortunately it was damaged by a typhoon in 1582 and completely destroyed by fire a year later.
Worse was to come although the second church to be built [between 1591 and 1592] was made out of stone. This was destroyed by an earthquake in 1600; the subsequent reconstruction [completed in 1614] was first weakened by an earthquake in 1621, then completely destroyed by two further earthquakes in 1625.
Building work started on the fourth incarnation of the cathedral in 1654 but the building had already deteriorated by the early 1700s so further restoration was needed. The fifth cathedral was damaged by earthquake in 1862.
A sixth was built, this time with a neoclassical façade. Unfortunately, the cathedral and its nearby structures were levelled by a massive earthquake in 1863. In 1879, the new Manila Cathedral was inaugurated, but the bell tower was destroyed by another quake in 1880. In 1945, the cathedral was bombed during the Battle of Manila.
The current [eighth] building dates from 1958.
Inside, the stained glass is rich in both colour and symbolism.
The roof has fine rib vaulting.
We continued following the walls, past a section of the moat which, together with the main gate to Fort Santiago [below] was restored in the 1980s. This man-made canal joins the Pasig River and Manila Bay, making Fort Santiago a true island.
Entrance cost Php 75.00 each. Fort Santiago is the main fortress of Intramuros and one of the oldest fortifications in Manila. It was erected by the Spaniards in 1571 replacing previous defences built out of logs and earth.
The White Cross marks the mass grave of the 600 people who died at Fort Santiago, some of them in the dungeons, during the Battle of Manila. A sign near the marble cross declares “The memory of the victims will live forever in the hearts and minds of the Filipino people.”
There are also views along the Pasig River.
Where a sentry perpetually stands guard.
Back on the walls, Matilda was taken with the idea of students playing ‘better billiards’ in the Walled City Dormitory [below].
As we came to back to our starting point, we looked back along the route we had walked.
Last year when we were in Vietnam we were told that it was unusually hot for the time of year. This year in the Phillippines, we were also told that it was unseasonably hot. So hot, in fact that schools were closed during the heat of the day and flexible teaching and alternative delivery modes were being invoked [see article below].
Robert’s research had identified the Batala Bar as a craft beer outlet and so having completed our circuit of the walls, we went in search of this [see Selfie of the day]. Robert enquired about a drink labelled Lambanog and we discovered it was made from milking the sap from coconut trees, much like rubber is harvested and the barman offered Robert a sample. He did not feel he needed more than a sample.
The barman was really very friendly and also recommended we visit the Distilleria Limtuaco & Co Museum which we added to our plans for the following day. The rear of Batala Bar opened out on to the courtyard of the Casa Manila which was also on the list of things to see.
The walk back to the hotel took us through typical Intramuros streets.
Some of the buildings have been beautifully painted with people and scenes.
Selfie of the day:
Route Map:
