Read this blog: The one where Matilda gets to have her cake and eat it [twice] Friday 14th and Saturday 15th February 2025 Our flight to Wattay International Airport in Vientiane left from Don Mueang International Airport in Bangkok and we booked a taxi from the hotel to take us there. To our surprise, the driver seemed to be trying to tell us that it was expensive in Laos. As we stood in the queue to board, the man waiting behind us first complimented Robert on his Hawaiian shirt. This happens a lot. As the conversation progressed it transpired that he was an American athletics coach specialising in the pole-vault currently travelling on a year’s sabbatical. One of his students was a teenage girl from London. When Robert told him that he was also a pole-vaulter, the coach looked at his current girth and said good-naturedly, “a little while ago”. Some readers will be surprised to find out that Robert was an English schools level pole-vaulter and still in fact holds his school record for pole-vaulting, which he set over 40 years ago. He represented not only Warwickshire AAA but also the West Midland Schools at the English Schools Athletics […]
Thailand
Read this blog: The one where we discover that the English only look at the pictures Thursday 13th February 2025 Matilda had planned we should get up early so that we could ascend the Golden Mount [see feature photo] in the comparative cool of the morning as on our last visit the temple had been covered in scaffolding so we had opted not to climb the 344 steps. However her confident assumption that yesterday’s lie-in meant that she had conquered jet-lag proved to be sadly over-optimistic. Once again, this time after a fitful nights’ sleep, we woke after 09:00. After breakfast, we once again walked to the Khlong Saen Saep [Saen Saep Canal] to catch a high speed boat. Already it felt hotter than it had the day before, despite the refreshing spray caused by passing another boat at high speed. Having arrived at Panfa Leelard Pier at the end of the line we set off along Boriphat Road towards the Golden Mount. We were almost instantly accosted by a tuk tuk driver trying to drum up some business but when we turned him down he was heard to mutter something which may have been in Thai but sounded suspiciously like “stupid […]
Read this blog: The one where we discover that there is no alcohol available in Bangkok Monday 10th to Wednesday 12th February 2025 Our second Asian adventure started in the Wetherspoons at Gatwick Airport where Robert opted for a pint and Matilda took in a cheeky decaffeinated latte while we waited for the gate for our 21:15 flight to be announced. On arriving for our second stay in Bangkok, we initially planned to grab a Grab (the Asian equivalent of an Über) to take us from the airport to our hotel. There is a dedicated Grab pick up zone beyond the taxi drop off lane as you exit Suvarnabhumi Airport. This is so popular that it has two pick up points designated rather unimaginatively Grab A and Grab B. We joined the throng of people all looking hopefully at their phones, waiting for a driver to accept their booking. After about a quarter of an hour we decided we would be better off getting the Airport Rail Link (ARL) into central Bangkok and then trying to get a Grab from there. The journey takes about half an hour to travel the 28km into the city and the train terminates at Phaya Thai Station where […]
Read this blog: The one where we reach our fifth country in South East Asia Saturday 6th to Monday 8th April 2024 We had one more full morning in Bangkok and as it was a Saturday we went to look at the Weekend Market, also known as Chatuchak Market. This is a vast retail space with over 8,000 market stalls spread over more than 14 hectares. You can buy almost anything here. There were plenty of shops selling vintage pre-owned clothing and Robert bought several more Hawaiian shirts [one actually made in Hawaii] to add to his collection. With temperatures well into the thirties, and the sweat free flowing, he did not want to try them on. [Once we got these purchases back to our room, Matilda felt that at least one of them was rather snug for Robert and so it might become a hand-me-down to her.] From here we went to Chinatown which is one of the largest in the world. It is also home to the oldest Chinese shrine in Thailand which dates from 1658. Chinatown was founded in 1782 when Bangkok became the capital of the Rattanakosin Kingdom. The immigrant Chinese who settled here were mostly Teochew […]
Read this blog: The one where Robert prefers to watch Friday 5th April 2024 The day started well. A young boy came down for breakfast while we were eating and to amuse him, the receptionist turned on the overhead model railway, which was complete with scaled versions of the Bridge over the River Khwae. We think we were probably more excited about this than he was. Having travelled over the bridge over the River Khwae Yai yesterday on the train, Robert wanted to go to the bridge itself to watch a train pass. He firmly believes that watching the trains is a more satisfying experience than riding on them. There is a station on the south side of the river called the River Kwai Bridge Station [see below] surrounded by stalls selling all manner of souvenirs. We have been struggling to find a standardised spelling of Khwae/Kwai. It seems the former is usually used for the rivers the Khwae Yai and the Khwae Noi which meet in Kanchanaburi. But it also appears that the Thai’s are happy to use the Anglicised version popularised by the 1957 film The Bridge on the River Kwai to make things easier for the tourists. […]
Read this blog: The one where we see a hundred grains of rice move two tons of rock Thursday 4th April 2024 Today combined two of Robert’s key interests: railways and WWII: its impact and legacy. As early as 1885 the British government had undertaken a survey to assess the feasibility of building a railway line linking Burma and Thailand. However, the route would have passed through steep jungle terrain and crossed many rivers. The project was judged to be too difficult and was abandoned. Over fifty years later towards the end of 1941, the Japanese invaded Thailand and then advanced into Burma in early 1942 in preparation for launching an attack on Singapore in February of the same year. The shipping route from Japan to Burma around the Malay Peninsula was 2,000 miles long [3,200 km] and was vulnerable to Allied submarine attack. An overland route was needed to ensure that supplies reached the Japanese Army in Burma. When Singapore fell, the Japanese took 110,000 Allied Prisoners of War [PoWs]. This was almost an alien concept for the Japanese who adopted the bushido warrior code which demanded death before surrender. Eventually it was decided that PoWs could be put to […]
Read this blog: The one where Matilda gives up luxury for monks Wednesday 3rd April 2024 The day started with a visit to the self service laundry. We may have tried to do too large a load as we had to run the drier twice which delayed our departure. Theoretically we now both have enough clean clothing to last the next fortnight until we return home. However, Matilda feels that going sleeveless is unwise in this climate and she should have packed more tops with short sleeves so may need to hand wash a few items to get her through. With clean laundry folded and packed we set off on the journey to Kanchanaburi. First we took the Skytrain. Then we had to walk a short distance to Thonburi Station where we bought tickets to Kanchanaburi. There are only a few trains each day and the majority of the journey is single track so sometimes the trains have to wait to pass each other at a station. Both Matilda and Robert tried to get on the carriage at the front of the train: it looked marginally more comfortable as the seats had slightly better upholstery. Unfortunately it was all reserved: […]
Read this blog: The one where we learn the correct way to queue Tuesday 2nd April 2024 We realised that a combination of the distances involved and the unseasonably hot weather meant we would need to use public transport in Bangkok rather than walking everywhere as we usually tend to do. Although it is normally hot in South East Asia in April, several locals have told us that it is significantly warmer here than expected for the time of year. This was not good news for Matilda, a pale skinned Western woman of a certain age more used to cold and rain than sunshine. Robert’s research had identified a water bus and we decided we would use this to get to the first of the cultural sights on Matilda’s list. The water bus proved to be a quick and easy way to get around. There is certainly no unspoken rule in Bangkok that boats will pass each other slowly or go at a speed which limits the wash and conserves the banks as there is, for example, on the Venetian laguna or the canal network in the UK. This is high speed transport. We got off and walked to Wat […]
Read this blog: The one where we want to be charged ‘on the meter’ Monday 1st April 2024 We travelled by GiantIbis coach again, this time from Phnom Penh to Bangkok, in a coach which was a little more modern, with just three seats across and more leg room. As before there were two drivers and one courier accompanying us. This seems to be company policy to avoid driver tiredness. This journey was scheduled to take about eight hours with three comfort stops as well as one to cross the border and get through immigration control. The courier gave everyone entry forms to complete on the bus to speed up the process but tourists travelling on a UK passport do not require a visa to enter Thailand, as a tourist. We had to get off the bus and walk to the Cambodian border control. Part of the route was along some railway tracks which looked newly laid. It may be that the cross border train will be reinstated. We were given lanyards to wear but we suspect this was so that the GiantIbis staff could identify us rather than for any immigration-related reason. The Cambodian border check point building was […]