Read the blog: The one where we see a rare Star Tortoise
Thursday 19 and Friday 20th March 2026
Although we could not travel on all the trains as originally envisaged, Robert wanted to visit the Nine Arch Bridge. Rail enthusiasts are advised to plan their visit to coincide with a train so obviously, we timed our visit accordingly.
On the basis that a viaduct links two higher points across a valley or gorge, Matilda had not expected the walk down to the site to be so long.
As we walked down Dilanka told us about a wasp attack at the bridge on a tourist the previous day: apparently a lot of wasp nests have been built under the arches although it was not clear what had provoked the attack. He also told us about another client he had brought here who seemed to start bleeding spontaneously. Having administered first aid, he discovered a very thin, small leech [so therefore still hungry rather than being swollen and engorged with blood] had attached itself between two of her toes. He advised us against walking off the path and in the grass. He also told us of a local treatment to stem the bleeding: burn some newspaper and rub the ash onto the wound. It seemed we would be in good hands in the case of an emergency.
The Nine Arch Bridge is one of the engineering marvels on this line. It was built in 1921 using stone and cement without any steel [see also Selfie of the day]. We obviously stayed and watched a train cross.
Some people were clearly not risk averse: a man stood on the parapet of the bridge to get the best view whilst a woman in a red dress hung out of one of the train doors as the train crossed the bridge.
We know we are showing our age but we chose the far safer option of a selfie, once the train had passed.
After Nine Arch Bridge we went to admire some scenery.
On our way to Ravana Waterfall.
Once we arrived, it seemed the wildlife knew exactly how to play to the audience.
The Ravana Falls are on the main Wellawaya road.
A sign states that 36 people have died here and warns against swimming or other reckless activities.
We are sure that all the guides and drivers who work for Walkers are impressive and have their own strengths.
But we felt we were very fortunate to have Dilanka assigned to us. He quickly grasped Robert’s enthusiasm for railways and trains. After we had visited Nine Arch Bridge and the falls, he suggested we could go to Demodara Station to see the Demodara Loop which had not been on Robert’s itinerary.
Fortuitously, when we arrived we found we had just a short time to wait before a train was due.
The Demodara Loop is a 900m long and 320m wide spiral section of track which passes under itself to negotiate a steep 1 in 44 gradient to reach Demodara Station [see Video of the day]. It was completed in 1923.
A local Sri Lankan engineer working with the British, Devapura Jayasena Wimalasurendra, is said to have been inspired by a Sikh farmer suggesting the railway should be built in the same way he tied his turban.
It is the only loop in the world where a station is situated directly over a tunnel.
After a morning of trains and waterfalls, we returned to Ella for some coffee and cake. Matilda was disappointed that the cheesecake had sold out but the carrot cake was a more than acceptable substitute.
Later the cloud cover came down and enveloped Ella.
The next day we had originally planned to travel to Yala by train but once again we used our ‘rail replacement service’ organised by Walkers which allowed us to visit the Diyaluma Waterfall.
The falls are formed by the Punagala Oya River.
With a 220m drop, it is the second highest waterfall in Sri Lanka.
There are natural pools at the top of the Diyaluma Falls where it is possible to swim. Matilda was on the point of trying to persuade Robert to get a tuk tuk up to the top to see them, when the tuk tuk driver who was hoping for our business overplayed his hand. He showed us photographs of people diving and jumping into the pools when Matilda had had visions of being able to slowly lower herself in. We could also make out people climbing down the rock face and we agreed to forego this experience as neither of us really has a head for heights.
Following the closure of the Hormuz Strait people have been panic buying petrol even though the Sri Lankan Government has stated that there is not currently a shortage. To try to manage demand petrol rationing has been introduced on a sliding scale for motorbikes, three wheelers [tuk tuks] and cars. We have often seen long lines of cars and tuk tuks queuing for petrol so when we passed a petrol station with a comparatively small queue Dilanka was able to get nine litres. This he assured us would be enough to get us where we were going but we do feel rather guilty that being driven instead of getting a train is contributing to this state of affairs.
The next stop was Buduruwagala Archeological Site which is the only Mahayana Buddhist site in Sri Lanka. Dating from the seventh to ninth centuries, the central Buddha figure is 52 feet high and is flanked on each side by a Bodhisatva each with two accompanying figures.
There are further remains around the archeological site and excavations are on-going. Robert had decided to try Matilda’s sarong instead of zipping and unzipping the removable legs on his trousers.
Dilanka is very knowledgeable about local flora and fauna and as we continued on our way he suddenly stopped the car, turned round and told us he wanted to show us something: crossing the road was a rare Star Tortoise. The high domed shell has very beautiful and distinctive markings but seemed to have suffered some damage on top.
Unfortunately when we approached it withdrew into its shell. Even more unfortunately, as we stepped back to allow it space to continue its very slow passage across the road, another passing car sped over the top of it making a terrible noise as the under carriage made contact with its shell. We now realised how it had probably sustained the previous damage. Fortunately it survived and Dilanka was able to move it to the roadside to continue on its way. Sadly Star Tortoises are endanged by loss of habitat and the illegal pet trade.
We checked into the Elephant Retreat Hotel and had a dip in the pool before retiring early as we had agreed a 06:00 start to go on safari.
Video of the day:
Selfie of the day:
Dish of the day:
Route Map:
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