Sri Lanka ’26 #9: From Anuradhapura to Dambulla Cave Temple

Read this blog: The one where we find an unexpected use for toilet paper

Friday 6th March 2026

After a relative lie-in, we checked out at 09:00 and Dilanka drove us to see the Aukana Temple which houses a statue of the Buddha, carved directly out of the granite. Created in the fifth century and set in a shallow alcove, the Buddha stands 42 feet [12m] tall on a lotus pedestal, facing east [see feature photo].

The carving of the material in the robe demonstrates particular expertise as it appears transparent with the undergarment [andanakada] visible. The statue would have originally been housed in a pilimage or image house but is now open to the elements with a metal canopy to protect it from the elements. Added later was the siraspatha – the flame-like ornament on the Buddha’s head – which signifies the flame of enlightenment and is similar to a halo in the Christian tradition. Signs at temples forbid selfies as it is disrespectful to turn your back on his image but Dilanka offered to take a photo for us and we were asked to turn sideways slightly [see not quite Selfie of the day].

Dilanka also showed us that the craftsmen who carved this statue had a sense of humour: at the bottom righthand side of the robes they have included sculptors’ marks in the form of indented impressions of the tools used.

Ever since seeing this statue of the Buddha, Matilda has been comparing how the folds of the robe have been carved against this as the gold standard.

As we went in we saw an attendant with rolls of toilet paper. We assumed you had to buy some if you wanted to use the washroom and Matilda felt this was a sure indication that she did NOT want to use the facilities here. However, when we got back to reclaim our shoes, we found each pair had some toilet paper carefully placed in one shoe so that you could clean your feet before putting the shoes back on.

On our way out we noticed the monks’ quarters associated with the temple which are now no longer in use.

Before entering the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple, we went to admire the rather kitsch outside of the Golden Temple Buddhist Museum building with the 100ft [30m] Golden Buddha statue behind. The position of his hands indicate he is turning a wheel but we did not go in.

The Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple, is also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla.

It is the largest, best-preserved cave-temple complex in Sri Lanka.

King Valagamba came to the throne of the kingdom of Anuradhapura in 103 BCE but five months later was overthrown by invaders from South India.

He took refuge in these caves for 12 years. Fourteen years later he then defeated the invaders and reclaimed the throne, continuing to rule until 77BCE.

The caves were subsequently transformed into shrines, and these continued to be added to and developed into the 18th century.

Most of the work was carried out during the Anuradhapura [first century BC to 993 AD] and Polonnaruwa times [1073 to 1250 AD].

Once a single cave, it has since been divided and the mural paintings cover an area of 2,100 m² over the walls and ceilings cleverly disguising the undulations in the rock.

The caves now contain 157 statues of the Buddha. Yes, that is a lot.

Once back outside, we were glad Dilanka had advised us to keep our socks on as we watched barefoot tourists struggling on the hot stone.

The first time you see a monkey it is really exciting but they are so ubiquitous that it is easy to become blasé. Wildlife always deserves recognition. This one was eating the offerings.

Apparently there was a period when Sri Lankan kings took Indian brides to secure the succession. Consequently many temples have a Hindu shrine attached so that both king and queen could follow their own religion in the same place at the same time. Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple is no exception.

From Dumballa we drove to see the Ibbankatuwa Megalithic Tombs. Our guide had never been before and was curious to see them too. 

First discovered in 1970 the burial ground is thought to be about 2700 years old, dating back to 700-450BC.

The tombs were enclosed in a four-sided box with a further slab providing a cover or lid. Cremated remains and grave goods have been found in urns and cists.

The ceramic finds show remarkable style and skill.

The site itself was very well cared for though obviously not frequently visited.

Clay pots as well as iron, copper and gold artefacts were found here as well as precious gems not native to Sri Lanka which indicate international trade was already flourishing.

We felt this was a neglected but interesting site and well worth a visit.

We then went to check into to our hotel where once again, sadly there had been multiple cancellations and there were very few guests.

Selfie of the day:

Route Map: