Read this blog: The one where Robert finds the Drunk Monkey without Matilda’s assistance
Friday 14th March 2025
Robert had planned a route to help us become more familiar with Kuching; the capital of the Malaysian state of Sarawak and the largest city on the island of Borneo. It is often referred to as the ‘City of Cats’ and Kuching has embraced this, installing cat statues [see feature photo] and even opening a Cat Museum.
The Waterfront Hotel, although not strictly speaking on the Sarawak River, is very close to the waterfront walk along the southern embankment. It is also adjacent to some of the most famous historical buildings of the city including the Old Court House Complex.
Many of these old buildings were the product of the rule of the White Rajahs, a British family which became the hereditary rulers of the Raj of Sarawak. James Brooke, the first of the three White Rajahs, helped the Sultan of Brunei to suppress a rebellion against a very unpopular Governor in 1841 and was rewarded with political authority over the area and the title of Rajah of Sarawak. After James Brooke’s death in 1861 his nephew, Charles Brooke came into the title and was later succeeded by his own son, Vyner.
Through these archways, stands the India Street Mall which marks the place where Kuching’s first Indian community settled and started selling all kinds of goods including spices and textiles. It is now pedestrianised and a large canopy has been added to provide shelter from the sun and rain.
The nearby Sarawak Floating Mosque does not, in fact, float but has been built on stilts over the river and when we passed it looked more stranded than floating. Officially known as Masjid India Kuching, it opened in 2019, and is probably best viewed in the evening if the water is high when the lights are reflected in the river.
The Darul Hana Bridge opened in 2017 connecting Kuching Waterfront on the south bank with the Astana and the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly on the north bank. It is surprising that this is the only footbridge in the centre of the city, and one which was completed relatively recently. Road traffic must cross the river further downstream.
The Kuching Waterfront is a 900m long esplanade on the south bank of the river with fine views across to the Astana and Fort Margherita. The Square Tower was built in 1879 and looks like a traditional English castle. It was conceived as a fortress facing Fort Margherita providing protection on both sides of the river. However, the Square Tower was never used defensively and is now a waterfront restaurant.
Two ornate metal dragon sculptures have been installed on the banks of the river, looking like a cross between gargoyles or fountains and cannons.
The Astana was built in 1870 by Charles Brooke [the second Rajah of Sarawak] as a wedding gift for his wife. It is now the official residence of the Governor of Sarawak and is therefore only open on selected days as chosen by the Governor.
Darul Hana Bridge is sinuous and serpentine, curving out across the river on two steel pylon supports. It is illuminated at night and the Darul Hana Musical Fountain installed on the north bank provides a music and light show every evening [see Video of the day].
Traditional sampans, now motorised, still provide transport along and across the river but we opted to walk across the bridge.
Fort Margherita was named after Charles Brooke’s wife and was built in 1879 as a fortification against pirates. It has recently been renovated and now houses a very informative museum about the period of the rule of the White Rajahs.
James Brooke, the first White Rajah combined local practices and customs with his own liberal humanitarian ideals to establish the first form of government for the Raj of Sarawak. With the support of local leaders, he established two consultative councils, the Supreme Council (1855) and the Council Negri (1867).
He was very aware of the importance of forming strategic alliances and won the allegiance of his officers; local headmen and Malay chieftains inspiring loyalty from all. Unlike in other British colonies at the time, he resisted the creation of a European elite and encouraged an easy informal relationship with everyone.
Rajah James established symbols of power and authority, but also of cohesion and community. He introduced both a national anthem and flag, to give Sarawak a distinct sense of identity.
Visitors to Fort Margherita may also climb to the roof for the view.
The lawns inside the fort were very well-tended.
The museum was well laid out and very informative: we would recommend visiting Fort Margherita.
Walking back towards the river there were views of the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly.
Steps lead down to the river, with a fountain running the full length . . .
. . . which was surmounted by a splendid metal bird.
We walked back across the River Sarawak and went in search of the Sri Srinivasagar Kaliamman Hindu Temple which was unfortunately closed for repairs but we were able to take photographs through the gates.
We passed the Kuching Civic Centre which is a very striking building with a viewing platform but we did not go in on this occasion.
Nearby is the Kuching Amphitheatre, which sits in a five acre public park created on land which used to be a golf course. It opened in 1992.
Sadly the Kuching Heroes Cemetery looked a little neglected. Among others, thirteen men who were “loyal to the cause of freedom” and who helped Allied prisoners held by the Japanese are interred here. Eight were executed and a further five died in prison.
St Joseph’s Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral with a very dynamic skyline. There was a service underway when we tried to visit and we did not feel we should intrude.
Tugu Pahlawan, or the Heroes’ Monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives in conflict and in the defence of Sarawak and was opened in 1993.
The five storey Borneo Cultures Museum is another very unusual and distinctive structure.
The Anglican Cathedral is St Thomas’s Cathedral but we were by now in serious need of some rehydration so we decided to head back to the hotel rather than going inside.
Robert opted to return to the Drunk Monkey . . .
. . . before meeting Matilda at the pool.
Video of the day:
Selfie of the day:
Dish of the day:
Route Map:
