Read this blog: The one where our breakfast is kept a secret
Tuesday 11th March 2025
On the first morning at the Radisson Blu Hotel we had struggled to find breakfast. We later realised that this was probably because tourists like us who were not observing Ramadan were being kept hidden away so as not to offend those who were fasting.
We went for our secret breakfast then straight out to the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. The visiting hours for tourists/non-Muslims during Ramadan were between 08:30 and 11:30.
The mosque is named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei, [the father of the current Sultan] who helped to design it as well as providing the US$5 million funding from his personal fortune needed to build it. It was completed in 1958 and with a golden dome which dominates the city skyline it has since become the most photographed and iconic site in the country.
The construction of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque used many of the world’s most expensive and sought-after materials including Italian marble; granite from Shanghai; English stained glass and chandeliers and handmade carpets from Belgium and Saudi Arabia. It is one of the largest mosques in the Far East and reflects the influence of Mughal architecture from India.
There was a small area cordoned off just inside the entrance where we were allowed to stand to take photographs and a very chatty guide welcomed us and told us about the building and the observance of Ramadan. He invited us to return for Iftar – the meal which breaks the fast at sunset – when he said that all the people who come to the mosque are fed. Matilda mis-heard this as “older people” which probably just confirms that she really is getting older and needs to get her hearing tested.
The robes we were asked to wear to ensure we complied with the dress code seemed to bring out the colour of Robert’s eyes.
We were also asked to sign the visitors book and realised we were the first visitors of the day.
Situated next to the Kedayan River, the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is surrounded by a man-made lagoon. This is intended to signify that the mosque serves as a bridge between the country’s past and present.
A concrete re-creation of Sultan Bolkiah’s 16th century ceremonial royal barge [Mahligai] has been installed on the lagoon.
After visiting the mosque we returned to the hotel to pack and check out before visiting Kampong Ayer, the world’s largest and oldest water village.
As we checked out, the receptionist asked about our airport transfer. Once again, Robert was adamant that he had not booked this and we realised that a Dart taxi would cost approximately a third of the price the hotel would charge. We are still not sure how they were so well-informed about our travel plans although there are limited flights out of the country. We would always tip a Dart or a Grab driver which we had organised for ourselves but would not tip a driver booked by a hotel as they will have already added a significant mark-up. We appreciate this may unfairly disadvantage the driver.
We walked down to the river front where boats ply their trade. First, as obvious tourists, we were approached by a man who wanted to sell us a boat tour but we explained we did not have time for this. He immediately lost interest and waved us towards a boat which was offereing trips across the river between the mainland and the water village.
We were quoted $80 for a tour but the trip across the river was just $1 each.
Kampong Ayer has existed for more than a thousand years.
Initially, archaeological findings confirm that Kampong Ayer was regularly moved to safeguard the comfort, safety and security of its inhabitants. Eventually it settled in its current location.
The visitor centre at Kampong Ayer explains the history of the settlement. Early foreign visitors to Brunei described it as the “Venice of the East” [see Selfie of the day].
Incredibly, the first census in 1911 showed that almost half the country’s population lived in Kampong Ayer.
The water village today must be a far less vibrant and thriving community than it once was. It seemed almost deserted when we visited. But at one point it was the main focus of trade for the area.
Concrete walkways have now been built around the edge of the encampment but the wooden walkways into the centre seemed less secure and, although this was our own perception rather than anything we encountered from local people, we felt as though we were intruding into someone’s backyard/personal space. We decided that we would not trespass further and returned to the mainland.
Here we passed Mercu Dirgahaya 60. This sculpture was erected in 2006 to celebrate the Sultan’s 60th birthday. The name translates as the “Long Life, Your Highness 60 Monument”.
From here we ordered our Dart to take us to the Empire Hotel, one of the few seven star hotels in the world.
Selfie of the day:
Route Map:
