Read this blog: The one where Matilda finally gets to use her emergency poncho
Tuesday 4th and Wednesday 5th March 2025
Rain was forecast but it was still quite warm so Matilda took her emergency poncho rather than a waterproof jacket. Santa had put the poncho in her stocking about eight years ago just after she retired and she has been taking it on holiday with her ever since.
When we emerged from the metro station it was raining heavily and Matilda finally got the chance to make use of this very well-travelled piece of attire. It proved quite successful: the only issue was that, because it was so light-weight, the hood kept blowing off.
We planned to visit the Taipei Confucius Temple first. On the walk there we came across bear statues illustrating the “hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil” adage with a fourth one [below left] with its hands behind its back illustrating the principle of “do no evil”.
The saying is derived from/attributed to Confucius: “Look not at what is contrary to propriety; listen not to what is contrary to propriety; speak not what is contrary to propriety; make no movement which is contrary to propriety” [Analects of Confucius].
When we entered the temple complex, we were surprised to see many short plastic figures depicting Confucius: but to Western eyes they looked rather more like Papa Smurf than a revered philosopher and the ‘ultimate sage’.
Two ornate gateways lead to the Da Cheng Temple itself in the central courtyard. The first gateway, the main entrance to the complex, is called Lingxing Gate. It has eight columns and a roof with double eaves. It is unusual because instead of having guardian gods painted on them, the doors are decorated with raised studs.
The second gate is called the Yi Gate or the Da Cheng Gate. The central doorway is left closed as a sign of respect for Confucius and is only opened for ceremonial purposes.
The main building of the Taipei Confucius Temple is called the Da Cheng Hall [also Dacheng Hall]. It was designed in 1925 and built between 1927 and 1929.
Da Cheng Hall translates as the Hall of Great Achievement.
In the buildings surrounding the main temple there are shrines and displays about the teachings of Confucius [whose name in Chinese is often ‘Kongzi’]. He lived for 73 years from 551 to 479 BCE.
Matilda was pleased to see appropriate prayers to Confucius were helpfully provided on the tiled floor in the Hall of Great Achievement.
Confucius founded the Confucian School, breaking the strangle-hold the ruling classes had over education at the time, which he described as “learning lies with the rulers”. He believed that everyone should be able to access education, learning and culture. Unsurprisingly not all those in positions of power agreed with this precept.
Qinshihuang, the first emperor of a unified China, ordered the burning of books and the burying of scholars, virtually eliminating Confucian thought. It was not until the Han Dynasty, when benevolent rule was seen as vital for continued rule, that Confucian thought took hold. Benevolence was the foundation of Confucian philosophy and has informed Chinese culture for over 2,500 years spreading across Asia and into Europe.
We were both surprised by the range of the mathematical principles and theorems which Confucius and his followers had developed.
As we were riding on the Maokong Gondola the day before, Matilda had spotted a photograph of the Museum of Drinking Water and decided that she wanted to visit. A neo-classical European style building with Doric columns and a formal garden laid out in front seemed a rather incongruous place to house a pumping station in Asia.
The Museum of Drinking Water is located in Taipei Water Park, which has a recreational swimming pool and slides but was drained and closed when we visited. The pumping station was declared a historic site in 1993 and opened as a museum the same year. It was not very popular with tourists although it would probably be busier when the water park is open. We seemed to be the only ones visiting. Entry was NT$50 each.
Known as the Gungguan Water Purification Plant, when the building was opened in 1908, this was the first slow sand filter system in Taipei and could produce 20,000 tons of drinkable water a day.
Various improvements, including a rapid sand filter system, increased capacity until the processing was moved from this site. Now 520,000 tons of water is processed daily. The original equipment for pumping raw and fresh water has been preserved inside unexpectedly attractive building.
Robert wanted one last night around the Red House in the hustle and bustle of Taipei. As we sat under cover in a bar we watched a thunderstorm: the lightening and torrential rain meant it was easier and drier to stay where we were. The menu seemed to be predominantly fried food so we had some rather unhealthy bar snacks: onion rings, chips and tempura [see Dish of the day].
The next morning we flew to Manila.
After we had checked our luggage in at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport we were instructed to watch our bags pass through the scanning machine before going through security ourselves. No one was called to open their bags but we assume if there are any issues identified the owner of the luggage is ready and waiting. Matilda thought this system seemed preferable to the one employed by Vietnam Airlines which had broken her padlock and zip.
Robert had booked a car to take us from the airport to the Bayleaf Intramuros Hotel. Intramuros [literally inside the walls] is the historic walled city in Manila covering just over a quarter of a square mile. Our hotel is close to the wall and we have a fabulous view of the fortifications from our room.
Founded in 1571, the stone walls taper from 40 feet wide at the base to 20 feet at the top and are up to 20 feet high. Originally the entire city of Manila was deemed to be within these walls and other towns and suburbs [arrabales] which are now districts of Manila were referred to as extramuros.
Once visible from the sea, land reclamation and the construction of Manila South Port mean the citadel now stands further inland. In the twentieth century, the moat around the fortifications was mostly drained [a few water features remain] and turned into a 18 hole public golf course.
We had read that tourists should exercise a high degree of caution in the Philippines and so we left the bum bags in the hotel and went for a short stroll within Intramuros.
After the grey, damp start to the day in Taipei, the 30º heat was a shock. We found a bar for a refreshing cold beer, which turned out to be a karaoke bar [see Video and Selfie of the day]. We must have significantly raised the average age of the clientele. Even so we were treated to renditions of varying quality of Frank Sinatra, Queen and David Bowie and Bon Jovi.
We then returned to the Sky Bar at the hotel . . .
. . . for the sunset.
The golf course is fully illuminated for night games. We assume as the temperature will drop in the evening this is a popular time to play and Robert discovered that course fees are higher then than in the middle of the day.
Video of the day:
Selfie of the day:
Dish of the day:
Route Map:
