Read this blog: The one where we experience what we feel is is the longest airport walk in the world
Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd March 2025
As we prepared to leave Hong Kong, Matilda reminisced about the last time she had visited around the end of March/beginning of April 1987 when she stayed with her brother-in-law Sandy. He had introduced her to Paul Simon’s Graceland album and on this trip she had enjoyed hearing tracks from it played in several bars and coffee shops.
We were to fly from Hong Kong to Taiwan. Our Octopus cards were valid on the Airport Express but we had slightly miscalculated and we both found we had a HK$3 debt on each card but thankfully we were both allowed through the barrier.
The new Hong Kong International Airport is huge. When we checked in and looked for our departure gate we saw that the numbers went up to 524. However, not all these numbers actually correspond to gates: there are 89 in total.
At Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport you must first pass through the Animal and Plant Quarantine control to make sure you are not importing any banned foodstuffs. We noticed one woman in the queue frantically eating up a sandwich [we assumed with a meat filling] which was surprising as she seemed to be travelling on a Taiwanese passport and you would think she might have been more prepared for the restrictions.
Having cleared the Animal and Plant Quarantine control you have to fill in a Taiwan Arrival Card either electronically or on paper even if, like us, as British passport holders, you are visa exempt. If we had been aware of this as we stood in the queue for the Animal and Plant Quarantine control we could have saved ourselves some time by filling it in on-line as we waited.
The ticket machines for the MRT Airport Express would not accept a NT$1,000 note and we had no smaller denominations. The fare for both of us was NT$ 300. However we realised that some of the automatic barriers had contactless symbols on them so we were each able to use two different credit cards to tap and travel. We always take two separate credit cards on our trips so that we have this option as you cannot use one card to pay for two separate passenger’s journeys.
Having checked into our hotel, we took a stroll to find somewhere to eat and drink and we came across the Bravo Café, serving Belgian beer.
The following morning we set off to see some of Taipei. Many of the streets here are wide boulevards often with three or four lanes in each direction. We noticed that several of the roundabouts had quite grand gates in the centre.
Our first destination was the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall which is in Liberty Square [also known as Freedom Square].
This is a vast plaza covering over 2,600,000 square feet [240,000 square metres].
Democracy Boulevard [above] leads from the Liberty Square Arch to the memorial past the National Concert Hall [below] and the National Theatre.
We arrived as people were assembling to watch the Military Honor Guard Ceremonial Patrols and Drills so we joined the audience. The drills take place hourly between 09:00 and 17:00 and last about 15 minutes.
An area on Democracy Boulevard at the base of steps up to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial is cordoned off and people gather around this perimeter whilst others take up position on the steps for a better view.
As with many ceremonial military displays, the marching style is unique and completely unsuited to any form of warfare [see also Video of the day].
Three soldiers arrive from opposite directions and after they reach their designated drill ground at the base of the monument, barriers are put in place behind them.
Two of the guards – who we assumed were more senior – observed while four of the soldiers put on a bravura synchronised display. It was hugely impressive even though it did remind us of drum majorettes twirling batons except in this instance they were using heavy rifles.
Liberty Square [also known as Freedom Square] is a public plaza. In times of need, the people have gathered here since it was completed in the late 1970s.
Having enjoyed the drill display we walked up the steps to see the monument to Chiang Kai Shek.
As well as the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial, Liberty Square now includes the imposing National Concert Hall [right] and National Theatre [left] which were built in 1987. The Concert Hall is used for grand events including red carpet ceremony where the Taiwanese present welcome for foreign dignitaries.
The name Liberty Square derives from the role the square played in the transition from one-party authoritarian rule to modern democracy. In 1990 mass democracy rallies were held here which instigated a swift but peaceful transition to pluralistic democratic elections.
It seemed to us that the square was a curious juxtaposition of this celebration of freedom and a memorial to the leader responsible for years of oppression and strict control.
On a Sunday, when we visited, the square was a magnet for local people. There were groups of soldiers, athletes and students: some practising music or drills others taking tai chi classes.
From here we walked down more wide boulevards to the Presidential Office Building. This is a large red brick construction built during the period of Japanese rule in Taiwan which lasted from 1895 to 1945. The building was damaged by Allied bombing during WWII. It became the Presidential Office in 1950 after the government of the Republic of China lost control of mainland China and relocated to Taipei. Inside the historical document for the Japanese surrender is on display.
As we approached the Red House, to Robert’s delight we saw a Lego model of an F1 racing car on display.
The Red House in Ximen is a western style octagonal building completed in 1908 which was Taiwan’s first government-built public market.
Now the buildings and surrounding area have been renovated and transformed into an award-winning new cultural and creative development surrounded by bars and cafés. Not many were open as we passed but Robert planned to return later in the day.
Inside the Red House, stalls sell locally made crafts and artefacts.
The Bopiliao Historical Block is made almost completely of one or two story brick buildings, many dating from over 200 years ago.
It was one of the earliest commercial districts in northern Taiwan. Now the street is home to museums, shops, food outlets, and art exhibitions although some of the buildings are less well-preserved than others.
From here we walked to Longshan Temple.
Originally built in 1738, the temple has been destroyed or damaged in numerous earthquakes and fires but Taipei residents have always rebuilt and renovated it. Most recently in May 1945, it was targeted by American bombers during WWII because the Japanese were reportedly hiding arms there. It was rebuilt a few months later after the end of the war.
Robert decreed he had seen enough culture and that it was time to return to the Red House where he sampled Buckskin, a locally brewed lager which he later declared to be his favourite.
Later that evening when we took the subway back to Ximen in search of a meal. . .
. . . the area was much busier and brighter and Robert felt this was more like the Taipei he had expected. We were neither of us feeling adventurous and found a pasta place to eat [see Dish of the day].
Video of the day:
Selfie of the day:
Dish of the day:
Route Map:
