Sunday 31st March 2019 It is easy to forget that, following Viceroy of India John Lawrence’s decision to move the capital of the British Raj from New Delhi to the hill station of Shimla in 1863, for six months of the year this was the headquarters of the government of India. In our guide book, the address of the Viceregal Lodge is given as The Mall and although this road spans four miles, as this has been a more sedentary holiday than we usually have we thought we would try walking. A more accurate address, which is given elsewhere, would be near Observatory Hill. There are no tuk-tuks or cows on the streets of Shimla and the traffic is therefore calmer than in other towns and cities. There are many hairpin bends on the roads to cope with the steep gradients but there are plenty of traffic police wearing curious shiny white hats shaped like those worn by Canadian Mounties, to direct and control the flow of vehicles. Our route took us back past the Post Office [below right] and the Railway Board Building [below left], which was built between 1896 and 1897 using cast iron and steel to ensire it […]
Monthly Archives: March 2019
Saturday 30th March 2019 In 1864, Shimla became the summer headquarters of the British government in India, hence the building of the narrow gauge railway, and today it is the capital of Himachal Pradesh. Although the forecast predicted rain and 18 degrees, the day was sunny, warm and bright. The upper entrance/exit to The Combermere Hotel is on The Mall, the four mile long main street through the town and we walked up and along part of this past many of the important old buildings of the British Raj. Some have been impressively restored to their Victorian splendour, such as the Gaiety Theatre, and the town hall and, whilst others are almost derelict, there are clearly plans to repair them. We climbed up to the eastern end of The Ridge to Christ Church, built in the gothic style in 1846 and the first church to be built in north India. This is not open to the public before 10:30 so we planned to return. The Ridge is an open area which is 7,316 feet above sea level and boasts views across to the Himalayas . . . . . . as well as the slightly incongruous mock Tudor library. The […]
Friday 29th March 2019 We had arranged a car to take us to New Delhi Station but the rush hour traffic was so bad we could not get close and in the end we got out and walked the last 200 meters. As we waited on the platform for the train to Kalka we were joined by two English ladies who were also travelling on to Shimla via Kalka and who, perhaps sensing Robert’s burgeoning Tour Manager skills or perhaps simply attracted by his Hawaiian shirt, thought we would provide a buffer between them and the many people who kept trying to accost and “help” them in the station. For this leg of our journey, we travelled executive class [EC] from New Delhi to Kalka which proved to be a very civilised experience. However, Indian Railways seemed incapable of booking groups or couples travelling together in adjacent seats but after some trading of places with others in the carriage, everyone seemed happy. The catering is provided by Meals on Wheels who we have experienced before and we were offered complementary water, tea/coffee and biscuits followed by breakfast. In an interesting local variation, although we had not ordered this ourselves, the […]
Wednesday 27th March 2019 As mentioned previously our hotel, in Jaisalmer, looks old but is actually very new. There is a huge amount of building work going on in India, Jaisalmer included. What sets Jaisalmer apart is the wonderful and fantastic sculptured sandstone buildings created by the skilled local craftsmen. Whilst trying to find the best spot in the hotel for WiFi, Robert started chatting to the owner and better WiFi speeds swiftly ensued. As the owner is also an architect, a discussion of hand drawn versus 3D computer drawn building designs followed. The owner’s brother and business partner is starting to create all the new designs in Google 3D Sketch-up. Robert is familiar with this software, obviously, and was able to give them a few hints, and further discussion about 3D printing sandstone was unavoidable. As it turns out heavy machinery is now used extensively to cut the sandstone into slabs of the specific required thickness. These are then either ‘distressed’ by hand or with a ball-bearing gun, or are intricately carved by chisel. This led to our next day’s adventure. The hotel owner arranged a trip for us to see the skilled craftsmen at work at the stonemasons […]
Tuesday 26th March 2019 We had our bespoke breakfast [no pre-prepared buffet here as everything is cooked to order] ready to go into the town to look round the sights. Staff were very helpful in stopping us from over-ordering food in the evening and again at breakfast. We both asked for hash brown potatoes, expecting a portion, but we were wisely advised to share what turned out to be a single hash brown the size of a desert plate. The combination of the view and the food made this one of the best breakfasts we have had. Jaisalmer is known as the Golden City because of the colour of the stone and indeed it has the lovely, warm, golden tones of a Cotswold village. Partly because it is built out of sandstone and partly because of the rounded crenellated battlements, Jaisalmer Fort does look like a child’s sandcastle, made by up-ending those shaped buckets you can find at all British seaside towns, whether they have sandy beaches or not. Jaisalmer Fort is described as ‘India’s only living fort’ as, rather than a monument, it is a walled city where an estimated 4,000 people live and work. We took a tuk-tuk […]
Monday 25th March 2019 Today was an early start, our train was timetabled to leave Jodhpur at 05:30, so we had arranged a taxi from the hotel at 04:45. Getting up at 04:00 it was dark, and the first job was to check the PNR number of our ticket, so we could find out our carriage and cabin numbers. Unfortunately our PNR gave us an error: not an auspicious start. When we arrived at the station we checked with the ‘Reservation Counter’ and we were told we were in HA-2, C and C. So a first class AC1 carriage and both in cabin C. The train arrived into the station on time at 05:00, not bad when you consider it had travelled over 400 miles from Delhi overnight. We found the HA-1 carriage, but we were told we were at the wrong end of the train because it was splitting at Jodhpur and the other end was the one going on to Jaisalmer. We duly walked down to the far end of the train only to find there was no HA-2 carriage. Robert had a lengthy discussion with the guard and it transpired that there was in fact no first […]
Sunday 24th March 2019 We took a brief trip into the old city to the Clock Tower and the Sardar Bazaar. On walking out of the hotel, the helpful doorman who stands in front of the part of the palace which is still a regal residence, told us the price we could expect to be charged for a tuk-tuk. Whilst this was still a “tourist” price, it was helpful to have some guidance. The Clock Tower, or Ghanta Ghat, was built in 1912 by Maharaja Sardar Singh who also gave his name to the market in the surrounding streets. The Fort looms up behind the Clock Tower, which is now the main focal point. Although Ghanta Ghat is illuminated at night, there is a wind blowing dust or desert sand around the city and as we have an early train to catch we are not planning on seeing this. The staff in our hotel are appropriately and smartly dressed in tunics and the distinctive churidar trousers which were the basis for the famous Jodhpur trousers. Jodhpurs were developed by Sir Pratap Singh, a keen polo player and member of the Rathore clan of Rajputs who ruled in Jodhpur. Originally a […]
Friday 22nd March 2019 We caught a train from the Pink City to Jodhpur, arriving about 18:30 in time for some thirst-quenching water and cold beer and a meal. Matilda was in particular need of liquid refreshment as Robert had reported that the toilets on the train were in a rather unpleasant condition so she had been limiting her water intake to avoid having to use them. When trains are delayed this can become a bit of an issue for her. Matilda is frequently having to balance the need to maintain adequate hydration with her expectation of being able to find acceptable toilet opportunities. Our hotel, the Ranbanka Palace Hotel, is as the name suggests in part of a palace. It was built in 1927 for Maharajadhiraj Sir Ajit Singh Ji, the younger brother of Maharaja Umaid Singh who built the Umaid Bhavan Palace and it is providing Matilda with some welcome luxury, following the rather parched train journey. The descendants of Maharajadhiraj Sir Ajit Singh Ji still live in part of the palace but our room faces onto a courtyard with a restaurant, bar, a spa and a pool. The staff are incredibly attentive and helpful and Robert noticed […]
Thursday 21st March 2019 Although not part of the planning process, as we were in India for this festival of colour, we thought we should enter into the spirit of the celebration. Holi signifies “the arrival of spring, the end of winter, the blossoming of love, and for many a festive day to meet others, play and laugh, forget and forgive, and repair broken relationships”. Coloured powder is thrown in the air and smeared over people’s clothes and faces. Dancing and food are also vital. We bought white shirts from the shop in the hotel reception which seemed to be doing a roaring trade with a Chinese tour group. It took a few attempts to find a top which would fit Robert’s broad shoulders and the sizing was a mystery as Matilda’s top said 48 in the back and Robert’s said 38. We asked the hotel receptionist to take a “before” photo and headed out to the Dhulandi Festival. Some colours seem to be more adhesive than others . . . . . . and some are more long-lasting but . . . . . . there comes a point when they all merge together. Robert’s hair proved to be […]
Wednesday 20th March 2019 Checking our berth allocation for the sleeper, we were extremely relieved to see we had both been assigned to the same compartment, albeit in a four berth cabin, for this journey. On boarding we found we were sharing with two Indian businessmen, both of whom had initially entered the adjacent compartment where some rather boisterous and giggly Chinese girls had already established themselves. Each, in turn, seemed relieved to find they would actually be sharing with us instead. In an ironic, yet somehow predictable, turn of events Indian Railways’ train number 19666 from Udaipur to Jaipur [the one train we would have appreciated being delayed as it would have allowed us to have a little more sleep] was running on time. Alarms were set for 05:20. We were awakened around midnight by hammering on the door. One of the other occupants just shouted, “Ignore it”, the other opened the door. There thus ensued 15 minutes of arguing amongst the various Indians about berth numbers. Eventually the ‘hammerer’ moved off to his second class air conditioned [2AC] bed having been defeated by those in first class [1AC]. We got ourselves up and ready to alight, on time […]
Tuesday 19th March 2019 Udaipur, a city with four man-made lakes, seems to be a popular resort with Indians as well as international tourists. We were told that the island cafe which we can see from our hotel is closed for six months for refurbishment. We therefore planned to take a boat trip on Lake Pichola and, having bought our tickets at the entrance to the City Palace we walked through the Palace grounds, past the Suraj Gokhda and out of the other side with views of the Fateprakash Palace and the Shiv Niwas Palace which have both been converted into heritage hotels. Passengers must wear life jackets in a rare acknowledgement of health and safety regulations. The boat ride is more expensive after 15:00 as this includes the sunset hours. The trip we took left from the City Palace Jetty and takes you past the Lake Palace, which is now a luxury hotel. And there are good views back towards the Fateprakash Palace and the Shiv Niwas Palace . . . . . . and the City Palace . . . . . . and the Gangaur Ghat. We had been given various conflicting pieces of advice by staff […]
Monday 18th March 2019 Before leaving our hotel in Agra, to go to Agra Cantt railway station, we took advantage of the wifi and checked our PNR code. We were surprised that we were in HA1/A/4 and HA1/B/5 [carriage/cabin/berth]. This meant that we had been allocated separate 4-berth cabins. When we got onto the train we discovered that Robert was in a cabin with a couple and a single man. Matilda was in a cabin with a young couple and a free bed. On discussion with the couple and the guard we ascertained that the single man in Robert’s cabin had moved from Matilda’s cabin. This meant that we could actually be together, sharing the cabin with the young couple. However, at about midnight our train arrived in Jaipur and the couple got off. We thought that we had the cabin to ourselves for the rest of the journey. It was then that we had a knock at our door and three men appeared with their reservations to share with Matilda [remember that Robert was supposed to be in a different cabin]. It is actually Indian Railway policy not to mix non-attached males and females in the same cabin. Robert […]
Sunday 17th March 2019 With an evening train to catch we planned just a brief trip to Itimad-ud-Daulah’s tomb and Mehta Bagh with time to chill at the hotel before heading to the station. Built ten years before the Taj Mahal, Itimad-ud-Daulah’s tomb was commissioned by his daughter, Nur Jahan, who was also Mumtaz Mahals’s aunt. It is said to have influenced the design of the Taj Mahal and to mark the transition from the traditional red sandstone Mughal architecture (as seen at Agra Fort that we visited yesterday, and the Red Fort in Delhi) to the more refined style eventually epitomised by the Taj itself. Indeed it is also known locally as “the baby Taj”. Itimad-ud-Daulah’s tomb features a symmetrical white mausoleum set in a garden surrounded by red sandstone walls. The interior decoration is possibly better preserved than that in some of the places we have visited and like the building it inspired, it is a place of calm and tranquility compared to the busy city outside its walls. From here we went to Mehta Bagh. This is sometimes referred to as the Black Taj and is said to be the site on which Shan Jahan planned to […]
Saturday 16th March 2019 The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays and we were originally advised that Sunday would be quieter than Saturday so planned to visit Agra Fort first. However, on the day, Amit, our guide, suggested that it might be better to visit the Taj Mahal and then Agra Fort on the same day as the weather was good and, like England, it can be unpredictable. There are two different entrance fees for tourists and locals as well as different queues for male and female for each type of ticket. Every visitor has to go through a security scanner and then entry to the main complex is via the North Gate, which is made of traditional red sandstone. Taj Mahal means “Crown of the Palaces” and it was commissioned in 1632 by Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite, and third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who had died the previous year while giving birth to their 14th child. It is said that over 1,000 elephants and 20,000 craftsmen were needed to move heavy materials and complete the building work. Widely regarded as being one of the most beautiful and romantic buildings in the world, the majority of […]
Overnight Thursday 14th and Friday 15th March 2019 The start of this journey was very civilised. We asked at reception for a taxi to the station and they arranged one of their own hotel cars and drivers and provided chilled bottled water for the journey. After the tuk-tuks we used earlier on the trip, a 4×4 with air-conditioning and a driver with a chauffeur’s cap is quite a contrast. During the drive we made the extraordinary discovery that it is possible to drive in India without using the horn at all. On this journey we were allocated a two person berth. Because we had managed to log on to the Indian Railway website using the wifi at our hotel, using our PNR we were able to ascertain our cabin and coach number prior to the journey to the train station. The train started in Kolkata so the allocation of cabins is easier, they potentially are more disjointed if you are joining the train at some point later in the journey (we might experience that issue later on the trip). Already our longest scheduled train journey at 21 hours, the trip from Kolkata to Agra was extended by a six hour […]
Wednesday 13th March When we arrived, very early, in Kolkata off the sleeper train and took a taxi to our hotel, the LaLit Great Eastern, we were not expecting a room to be available but wanted to deposit our luggage. We were therefore really pleased to be offered the use of the in-house spa as a “freshen-up” room. A shower, some complementary bottled water and a change of clothes and we felt ready to walk round a few of the sights which Matilda had identified as being within a reasonable distance of the hotel. Meanwhile, there had been a change of staff on reception and, much to our amusement, we were again offered the use of the freshen-up room. Clearly we were not measuring up favourably, even “freshened-up”, to the high sartorial standards they expect of their guests. Matilda had done some research and thought it would be possible to walk through and round The Maidan to see the Victoria Memorial and St Paul’s Cathedral. The Maidan is also apparently sometimes referred to as the Brigade Parade Ground and includes Eden Gardens and the Kolkata Race Course. The hotel staff clearly felt that we were a breed apart from their […]